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“Wong”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out Asian West Village Moderate Great

this is not to shortchange her other desserts, which are also dizzyingly and dazzlingly good. Her caramel apple shortcake with sugar-roasted apples, and light-as-air brown butter cake with cinnamon cream, and an adorable miniature caramel apple suitable for Cindy Lou Who from Whoville, will also wow you. And what of her chocolate snowball—a blackout cake wrapped around chocolate pudding all covered up in a fluff of Italian meringue like an igloo in the chocolate arctic with slivers of pomegranate fruit jelly and a shot of Sichuan hot cocoa ($10). People! Judy Chen must be worshipped. She is the next Sam Mason. The next Jehangir Mehta. The next Johnny Iuzzini. She should really take a bow at every meal. Please, call her out when you're there.

By now, if you’re meal goes anything like mine did, you’ll be sitting there, warm and cozy with a belly full of duck fat ice cream, while crowds of people line up outside waiting for a table. They’ll hover happily out in the cold, watching their breath, as you sit there. They don’t mind waiting. They know what’s coming. And as you try to squeeze out of your tiny space, you’re belly quite a bit larger than it was a couple of hours earlier, you’ll look around. And how 'bout that? It’s still happening. People are talking. Laughing. They’re sharing. They’re (gasp!) connecting. And, as they leave the restaurant, they will think, wait, I have to text! I have to tweet! I have to update! But they won’t. Instead, they’ll savor the moment and share it with the ones they’re with.

Wong is located at 7 Cornelia Street, 212-989-3399, http://wongnewyork.com

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