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“Geisha”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Asian	Midtown	Break the Bank	Great

r on it you get at Japanese markets), black tobiko, minced chives, and lemon juice, then crowned with a fluff of amaranth and baby shingiku—a soft green Japanese herb with an herbaceous sorel quality to it. This was one tuna tartar that made me smile—it harnessed a flurry of little flavors that blossomed in your mouth. Vernon’s Hamachi Ceviche ($16)—pearly slices of smooth fish in a pool of lemon ponzu floating with tiny cubes of avocado and grapefruit—was also startlingly good: delicate, but with impressive strength of flavor.

But honestly, Vernon’s wild version of Eggs Benedict (M/P) is reason enough to go back to Geisha. This dish is frivolously fun, and delicious. Vernon tops tiny toasted English muffins with gorgeous slices of smoked toro (get this fish to a bagel NOW!), a creamy briny mouthful of sea urchin, a rich, sweet/salty sea urchin hollandaise (don’t make a face—it’s fabulous), and a spoonful of Iranian Osetra caviar. Wow. I want these at brunch every week.

Don’t worry, entrees also held their own. A rack of lamb ($22) was juicy and pink on the inside and nicely charred on the outside (bare bones were returned to the kitchen), while kobe short ribs ($34) in red wine jus melted on the tongue. But the star of the main course section was a moist and glossy fillet of Red Snapper ($27) tucked into a whole grain mustard and breadcrumb crust, set in a potent spicy Korean broth and topped with Chinese broccoli. Susie, Jamie, and I, exhausted from a fabulous meal washed down with several bottles of wine, still managed to muster the strength to fight over the last bite.

I am glad I returned to Geisha. Sure, it made a bad first impression, but the second time, our meal was flawless. On our way out, as we walked down to the crowded lounge, there was a crash from upstairs. A tray of glasses had met their fate. Well, almost flawless.

Geisha, 33 E. 61st St between Madison and Park Aves, 212-813-1112).

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Posted: March 13, 2005

Other restaurants in Midtown :
+ Lever House   + Aquavit   + RM   + Joseph's (formerly Citarella The Restaurant)   + Town   + Artisanal   + The Oyster Bar   + Geisha   + David Burke and Donatella Restaurant   + Riingo   + Amma   + Cafe Sabarsky   + The Stone Rose Lounge   + BLT Steak   + V, The Steakhouse-- Closed   + Bar Masa   + Cafe Gray   + The Bar Room at The Modern   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + The Cafe at Aquavit   + Bistro du Vent-- Closed   + Shaburi   + Xing   + The Modern   + Bar Americain   + Alto   + Park Blue   + Mainland-- Closed   + Nobu 57   + Quality Meats   + Dona-- CLOSED   + Daisy May's   + 7Square-- CLOSED   + Amalia   + Fireside   + Anthos   + Patroon   + BLT Market   + Toloache   + Mia Dona   + Park Avenue Summer   + Convivio   + The Oak Room by guest reviewer Julie Besonen   + At Vermilion by guest reviewer Elaine Weiner   + Lunching at Inakaya, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Marea, by Guest Reviewer Susan Kane Walkush   + Le Bernardin   + New York Central -- A Reason To Eat at the Grand Hyatt Again   + Pampano Botaneria by Dara Pollak   

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