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  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American MeatPacking Moderate Great


One, a restaurant that gets its name from its address at One Little West 12th Street, is the come-back vehicle for chef Gavin Citron, formerly of Aja and the ill-conceived Aleutia. I am glad to see Gavin back behind the stoves, as I have been a fan his splashy but well-articulated fusion cuisine since he took over for Gary Robbins at Aja, a space that is now Restoration Hardware. (The Mall-ization of NYC continues.) At ONE, owned by ex-Versace Celeste Fierro and Erica Cohen, Citron has created a unique menu of fun lounge-style grub that works in this sprawling living room like restaurant. The place has a dark and sexy vibe helped out by slinky waitresses in cut out black tops, low, amber lighting, and lots of cozy snuggle-with-me-now couch-ish banquettes. It’s the sort of place that breeds premature intimacy. Beware.

As for the menu, I love the setup. There are eight categories, each one with a different theme and each one set up to titillate your taste buds and your dinner conversation. Really, who needs to talk about the compelling article on covert operations in Iraq by Seymour Hirsch in the New Yorker (consider it, along with the STRONG BUZZ, required reading - pick it up in this week's issue), when you can discuss a category of food entitled Naked? Under this grouping, you’ll find slick, raw plates like a spicy, luscious tuna sushi dice topped with seaweed and toasted shrimp rice crackers ($12). The Fresh category includes beet noodles with fresh herbs and toasted goat cheese, a nice twist on the standard beet and goat cheese salad. In the Bundles section, expect wrapped items like terrific semolina-dusted oyster stuffed into potato chip tacos with vegetable slaw—these are so much fun—I love the idea of a potato chip as a taco shell ($10), while the, ahem, Cream category includes Cheese Fondue (p/a) and fried house-smoked Buffalo Mozzarella with tomato relish ($8). Under Seed (things made with bread for you Atkins-nay-sayers), you can dig into a pizzetta with overnight tomatoes and proscuitto among other panini and pizzas. If you are feeling Wet, try the cured salmon with beluga caviar dressing ($12) or the succulent grilled Spanish red carabinieri shrimp with vermicelli in a rich, heady bouillabaisse-style sauce ($15), and finally in Wild (creatures that roamed the land) you can sink your teeth into Erica’s Bad Ass twin cheese burgers with everything (miraculous little pups, at $12), or apple wood smoked double lamb chops with egg ... [more, click below]

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Other restaurants in MeatPacking :
+ Paradou   + Florent   + One   + Bivio   + Spice Market   + Ono   + 5 Ninth   + Fatty Crab   + Del Posto   + Morimoto   + Los Dados   + 5 Ninth   + Merkato 55   + Scarpetta   + The John Dory   + The Standard Grill   + Bill's Bar & Burger   

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