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“The Spotted Pig”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | West Village | Moderate | Great |
THE SPOTTED PIG
There is no way to say this without inciting a Running-of-the-Bulls style rampage over to the corner of West 11th and Greenwich Street, so I am just going to say what I have to say, and hope that you don’t all run at once. Promise? Okay. The Spotted Pig is flawless. From the moment you walk in, until the moment you leave, flawless. The service is great, the welcome is warm and genuine, the food rocks, and the place is comfortable, lively and hip in an understated and permanent way. It is the sort of local joint every ‘hood craves.
Co-owned by A&R executive Ken Friedman (a foodie and celeb magnet, who hired Mario Batali as a consultant) and chef April Bloomfield (a buddy of Jamie Oliver, most recently of London’s River Café, and fresh from a summer stage with Alice Waters at Chez Panisse), this cozy corner “Pub” in the way West Village is an instant charmer. Decked out in exposed brick, with high archways, velvet curtains and snug wooden tables, the Spotted Pig has a long and inviting bar, pressed tin ceilings, and chocolate-toned walls decorated with vintage prints of pigs (some may have been spotted, though I cannot be certain), ducks, and all sorts of English hunting birds. (Alas, there were no paintings of pigeons, which I suppose are the official New York City hunting bird.)
The place has rustic countryside tavern vibe that feels like it’s been there forever. And to make things even better, chef Bloomfield’s short menu of hearty seasonal American “Pub” fare is succinct and simple, featuring dishes that are executed with impeccable technique and that are heavy on assertive balanced flavors, making licking your plate clean a simple task.
Let’s start with the Gnudi with Crispy Sage and Parmesan ($8). Everyone must order this appetizer. But first, we must get comfortable with the word. These are not Gnocchi. Similar, in concept, but very different. These are Gnudi. Say NOOO-di. Gnudi are pillows of hot, soft, sweet cheese. (High on the yummy scale.) The chef takes fresh, creamy rounds of sheep’s milk ricotta cheese, lightly dusts them in flour and a bit of semolina, and then pan fries them in a nutty beurre noisette with fried sage leaves and freshly grated Parmesan. These little dumplings, the size of fat grapes, are light, lovely, fun, and recklessly delicious. Pop one in your mouth, and break through the slight semolina crust, and the hot ricotta cheese oozes out in and fills your mouth wit ... [more, click below]
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