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“The Spotted Pig”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Great

h creamy richness. Baby, this is bliss. Order them in bulk. Do not share. Really. Eat them all yourself. It will not be a difficult task.

While we were digging into our Gnudi, our eyes practically rolling into the backs of our heads they were so deliriously good, the table next to us ordered the smoked haddock chowder with crackers ($7), and we had a small bit of food envy. The creamy broth was thick with fish and had a rich smoky aroma that was almost intoxicating. It’s on my list for the next time.

Next, we had the squid and mussel salad ($9), a lively mess of plump mussels and miniature hoola hoops of chewy squid, simply and correctly seasoned with lemon, olive oil, salt, pepper, and fresh chopped parsley. There is no need for anything more on the plate, and so there is nothing more on the plate. Now there’s a concept I like. Ms. Bloomfield is a talented chef who has been well schooled in the art of culinary restraint. Bravo.

Chef Bloomfield’s fish cakes are also remarkable in their simplicity. A pair of hockey-puck sized cakes are fashioned form skate and cod, with no filler other than the fish and herbs. They were perfectly browned with a slight crust from being seared in a hot pan. Slice one open and they you’ll find they are dense with fish, but still light and feathery on the inside. Remarkable. They are served, again, quite simply, with a glossy shock of tart homemade lemon aioli and a bright mound of broccoli rabe, rich with garlic. We also had the housemade pork sausages, slightly spicy wurst, that were served beautifully blistered and topped with tomato confit over a bed of lentils that get a jolt of texture and heat from some fresh chopped arugula.

Desserts are as simple and delicious as the menu. We had the lemon tart, basically bruleed lemon curd in a crust of dense buttery pastry. Chef Bloomfield also serves the Rivercafe’s famous Chocolate Nemesis, a mind numbing flourless chocolate cake that is remarkably rich but amazingly light at the same time. It even had me, not a chocolate lover, digging in for second and third spoonfuls.

As I mentioned at the start, The Spotted Pig is terrific because it is one of those places where all the elements of the dining experience come together flawlessly. It is not just a place where you can eat really good really reasonable food. The service is wonderful. Robin, who was a waitress at Lupa and then ‘inotoecca, is on staff (and is one of the most cha ... [more, click below]

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Posted: February 29, 2004

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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