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“Dominic”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | Italian | Tribeca | Moderate | Good |
DOMINIC
As most of you probably know by now, Pico, the wonderful Portuguese restaurant owned by chef (and at times Playgirl model) John Villa unfortunately closed a while back. In its place John opened Dominic, and it seems he may have finally found the right culinary formula for this somewhat cursed locale. Dominic is a warm, lively neighborhood spot with a newly renovated bar (bigger and much more inviting) and an extensive menu of rustic homestyle Italian eats like spaghetti alla chittra—roughly cut handmade pasta tossed with fresh ricotta and crushed sweet tomatoes—linguini with clams, house-cured pancetta garlic and parsley (one of the best I have ever had), and a massive, big boy-styled Veal T-bone Milanese, served with wild mushrooms and creamy polenta. If you don’t feel like full-on meal, stop in for a panzalatte—miniature calzones, stuffed with house-cured meats, olives and Italian cheeses. They are the perfect late-night snack for the bar. Whatever you do, for dessert, have the zeppoles (Dominic’s answer to Pico’s beignet-like sonnos). These fat, puffy fried dough balls arrive hot from the fryer, dusted with powdered sugar that is sure to get all over your black wardrobe, but such is the price of bliss.
Dominic is at 349 Greenwich Street, 212-343-0700.
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