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“August”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American West Village Moderate Great

lated with arugula, toasted hazelnuts and Serrano ham—a mixture of flavors that, like the right companion, bring out the best in each other. Soft malfatti ($7) fashioned from Swiss chard, ricotta salata and majarom cooked in a cast iron pan in the wood oven with a bit of brown butter were also lovely, though at first I thought they could use a pasta wrapper, as the texture was a tad mushy. But after they cooled down a bit, they firmed up, the outer layer sort of crisping, and the inside remaining warm and soft; the lower temperature also revealed a subtle nutmeg undertone that was a great spice note against the ricotta and chard. A refreshing bagna cauda ($7) was all about spring, assembled from al dente radishes, snow peas, and asparagus, tossed in a pleasantly pungent anchovy vinaigrette. The Tarte Flambe ($11) was also a winner, a chewy, but crispy pizza-dough, topped with sweet-tart crème fraiche, glorious caramelized onions, and nuggets of glossy bacon, served on a long-handled pizza board. The antipasti of braised and wood-oven roasted octopus was delicious as well, the tentacles chewy but tender, served in with a lemony chickpea and red onion salad, bringing the right jolt of acid to the plate.

While we didn’t get to the entrees, the right side of the menu offers tempting dishes that tables nearby seemed happy to lick clean in no time. A few dishes that grabbed my attention—Alsatian grilled rabbit with bacon and bread stuffing ($21), grilled sirloin with Yorkshire pudding ($24), and wood-roasted chicken with polenta and wild mushroom ragu ($18). I will be back, and hope to go in time to dine in the soon-to-open 35-seat glass-enclosed garden.

I liked August for many reasons. The food is reasonable and very tasty. It is not reinventing the wheel, but presenting the wheel well oiled. The staff is knowledgeable and friendly. The wine list offers great value from Spain, Italy and France. We particularly liked the Nero D’Avola and the Gigondas. The room is small and fills with a nice crowd that represents the ‘hood. There are couples, young and old; friends, lovers and those somewhere in between; effortless hipsters lounging side-by-side with those in need of the Queer Eye. The music is great—Jason remembers bands like The Pet Shop Boys, Tears for Fears, Duran Duran, and Toto. Yes, Toto! We were singing at our table and we were not alone. How fun.

August is the sort of restaurant that you want to visit, even if just to pop i ... [more, click below]

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