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“Pure Food & Wine”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Gramercy	Moderate	Good

ble waitress), hens served this water in Japan started laying lots more eggs after a few weeks. Good to know.

Desserts are quite good, especially when you consider that they are made with no sugar, butter, cream, or dairy. Chocolate Pudding ($7) is creamy and rich, and tastes terrific, topped with raspberries and mint. The chewy dark chocolate cookie ($9) with chocolate and pistachio ice creams, did not fare as well. It tasted like a Power Bar one night, but another, after the recipe was refined, was much more pleasant, though still not what you crave in a cookie—that soft, pliable texture in general doesn’t do it for me. The watermelon carpaccio ($8) with lime basil and coconut lime ice cream drizzled with galangal syrup, however, is great—a bright and refreshing slip of summer, as is the frozen lemon mousse ($8) with blueberries and ginger snap crust.

So what’s the verdict on PFW? You should go. I think it is stunning food that is really quite enjoyable to eat, not to mention in a setting that takes you to a serene and far away place. My only issue with the food is that after a while it can start to taste the same—like salsa, rich hummus and vibrant pesto—all good—just replayed in your mouth over and over. Also, I must warn you, in as delicate a way possible, that if you are not used to eating raw (and I was not), you may not want to eat here either (a) on a date when you may be interested intimate activity afterwards, or (b) with your husband, wife, partner, or roommate with whom you share an apartment with only one bathroom.

Pure Food and Wine is at 54 Irving PLace (b/w 17th and 18th Sts.), 212-477-1010.

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Posted: July 5, 2004

Other restaurants in Gramercy :
+ Casa Mono/Bar Jamon   + Pure Food & Wine   + Parea   + Gramercy Tavern (Lunch)   + 15 East   + Tocqueville   + Irving Mill   + Bar Milano   + Irving Mill   + Maialino   + Asellina   + Corkbuzz Wine Studio   + Breads, by guest reviewer Tracy Weiss   

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