the strong buzz, by andrea strong

“Amuse-- Closed”

September 6, 2003
In Hollywood, reinvention it is attempted (and failed) with alarming regularity. Madonna is perhaps the Queen, while Michael Jackson is the nose-less Court Jester. In the world of restaurants, Amuse takes the prize. Formerly The Tonic—a bifurcated, awkward space with great food by chef Joseph Fortunato—Amuse has undergone an extreme makeover—nips and tucks in substance and style—dropping it squarely on the Madonna end of the spectrum.

Dishes are sized like t-shirts in four sizes (small – large, $5, $10, $20, and $25)—a smart, economical and tasty concept, which explains why the stylish space is filled with a hot crowd. From the $5 bites, it would be a serious mistake to miss Hayden’s puffy, golden brown gougere, each filled with a thick, creamy, melting mouthful of gruyere and smoky bits of ham. It is an “I’ll have what she’s having” sort of dish. Ditto for the killer Arancini—Italian fried risotto balls mixed with earthy porcini mushrooms and sharp pecorino. Larger dishes also get major snaps. Hayden offers a feathery bowl of soba tossed with delicious, shimmering ribbons of raw yellowfin tuna marinated in soy, chiles and lime ($15). The pork tostada ($10) is miraculous—think North Carolina pulled pork—a brined, smoked, and cumin-spiced tangle—barely contained in a corn tortilla with black eyed peas and tomatillo chutney ($10). Baby, make me over.

Amuse, 108 West 18th Street (b/w 6th and 7th), 212-929-9755

Andrea Strong