Organic black silky chicken ($23) was one. A crispy, jet black-skinned bird, with alarming gray flesh, was served two ways—a moist roasted breast and a pair of buttery confited legs. Honestly, the bird could have been a bat, it was so black, but I would not have cared. The stylish, urban diners lining the tan banquets didn’t seem to mind the chicken’s resemblance to Dracula’s pet either. Served on a bed of vibrant green Malabar spinach (never heard of that either), with ruby red Asian wine lees (another new one)—a sort of sweet-tart pulpy sauce—that bat/bird was great. Simpson Wong, the brilliant young chef behind Jefferson (and Café Asean), has created a menu of sexy dishes that boldly mix up far-out Asian ingredients with classic French technique. Grilled slices of pink toro were topped with a buttery slab of caramelized foie gras; a heap of roasted quince drizzled with honey sansho peppercorn sauce ($19) finished the dish. A stunning plate of yellowtail sashimi ($13) was winning as well. Organized like dominoes on a long rectangular plate, shimmering slices of supple fish were set atop firm rectangles of Asian pear, dressed with a bright preserved lemon and chive oil.

Desserts are also excellent; especially the goat cheese and Fuji apple stuffed pot stickers ($7). Think apple pie in one-bite. At Jefferson, it is as easy to fall in love with the far-out as with the familiar.

Jefferson, 121 W 10th Street (b/w 6th and Greenwich Aves), 212-255-3333

Andrea Strong