The Strong Buzz

“Lunchbox Food Company--Closed”

May 1, 2003

It’s easy to love Lunchbox Food Company. Located in the a chic, restored diner (it was the Terminal Diner for years), with wide vintage booths and the all-important swivel-stool lunch-counter seating, this place oozes nostalgia and stylish charm, and serves some great chow to match, which is not surprising considering owners Jennifer Kohns and Lawrence Rudolph are alumnus of Le Bernardin and chef Shawn Glenn hails from Daniel and Judson Grill. At breakfast, coffee-seeking neighborhood folks stop in for savory turkey sausage and egg sandwiches ($5.75), or a couple of heavenly homemade doughnuts ($1 each, flavors change daily). When lunchtime rolls ‘round, the place fills up nicely with head cap-wearing hipsters and groovy ad exec types digging into inventive sandwiches liked goat’s milk gouda, green apple, and sheer-sliced cucumber on multi-grain bread ($6.95), and Spanish tuna dressed in a sherry vinaigrette, layered with roasted tomatoes and almond-arugula pesto on grilled olive bread ($7.95). Burger fans will find a new pinup in the thick and juicy Lunchbox Burger, smothered in caramelized onions and served on a golden brioche bun with a mountain of leave-me-alone-with-these-fries ($8.95). Dinner begins with deliciously clever “snacks” like a Portuguese-inspired tea-smoked cod hash served with frisee and bacon over a perfectly poached egg ($10), and sweet-spiced lamb turnovers with walnut chutney ($9). Main courses span the globe as well, and include choices like a hearty fig-stuffed pork tenderloin with horseradish cream and parsnip-chickpea fries ($17), and grilled chicken scented with lemongrass served with rice flour pancakes, coconut chutney and pickled red onions ($15). Desserts are extra-special, so save room, and this may be the first “Diner” with an cheese course (three for $9). What’s not to love?

 

LUNCHBOX FOOD COMPANY, 357 West Street (at Clarkson), 646-230-9466

 

Andrea Strong