Designed by Mark Newsen, The Lever House is a post-modern pod-like dining room filled with whiplash worthy celebs from Charlie Rose to Pink. Chef Dan Silverman (ex-Union Square Cafe) is a wonderful chef who honors the seasons and all sorts of appetites with dainty ladylike dishes like a silky fluke tartar heated up with chiles and orange zest, and hearty man-eating dishes like the juicy Lever House burger—a pile of recklessly flavored beef with pickled onions, sweet tomatoes on a big puffy bun that will send Atkins groupies undergound for extra carb-aversion therapy. The Lever House is one of those places that fits into almost every dining period. It is perfect for drinks after work–bar chef Rain is a whiz with booze and he'll whip you up one of his house specialites. The lemonade will knock you off your feet - don't be seduced by its fresh, minty, light, sweet-tart innocence. This drink is delicious but it is stiff. Have two and you'll know what I mean.

After drinks with Rain, have Steven Eckler, the manager (Harrison, 11 Madison) lead you to a pod (aka banquet) or a table in the back room for a bird's eye view of all the fabulous skinny people trying to avoid scarfing down the Sullivan Street pizza bianco bread served with a roasted garlic and walnut spread that will have you scrapping the last nutty bits from the ramekin in minutes flat. Meals at The Lever House are just so civilized. Celebs stroll around, media moguls make deals, and the rest of us peons can enjoy the show and the great grub. Starters include sliced pekin duck served simply, with cherries and arugula, a fun fried okra salad with yellow and green beans, and a delicious lobster tempura-rich, sweet lobster meat in a light batter that is almost delicate, with a tartar-style dipping sauce. The roast chicken with bread salad is one of the best in the city, crispy and golden skin pulled taught over moist, juicy meat. Colorado rack of lamb is also wonderfully flavored and perfectly cooked, served with fava beans, arugula, and pecorino. Sides deserve special attention. Consider fat, meaty fava beans tossed with pecorino and biter greens. How about a bowl of spicy, melting roasted eggplant, or a great succotash of wild mushrooms and sweet corn. A small meal can be made of these three dishes and wine, of course.

The Lever House is an A-list power spot that has a heart. The service is gracious and not pretentious. The food is comfortable but spirited, not mundane. The Lever House is a class act all around, and it is destined to be around for a long time. Let's hope so at least. 'Cause I don't know what I'll do without that fluke tartar.

The Lever House, 390 Park Avenue, at 53rd Street, 212-888-2700

Andrea Strong