When a restaurant chooses to do just one thing—in this case burgers-—the point is they better do that one thing right. Colin Devlin, the owner of DuMont Burger, a wood-paneled burger den in Williamsburg, could sell burgers and only burgers until the end of time, and never go poor.

The DuMont burger ($9.50, or $7 for a mini) is mammoth and meaty, not to mention well-seasoned and juicy. It arrives bedded on a grilled brioche bun the size of a catcher’s mitt, layered with red onion, pickles, and tomato. While this burger is very nice naked, it is breathtaking when dressed up. Choose from American, cheddar, Gruyere, Danish blue, or Monterey jack cheese, and very fine accessories like bacon, caramelized onions, sautéed mushrooms and avocado.

Your burger fantasy also comes with a choice of salad or fries. Come on people. You call that a choice? I call that a directive. FRIES, PLEASE! Especially when the fries in question are an eye-high pile of golden, greaseless, crispy, thick cut potatoes. These are priceless. The runner up in the fried food category goes to the Frisbee sized tempura battered onions rings ($4), which will chase away your winter blues in a nanosecond. (Never underestimate the power of perfectly fried foods.)

Devlin, who also owns DuMont, serves a killer fried fish sandwich ($10), and a ridiculously rich cardiac arrest special—the Mac & Cheese ($10)—stocked with bacon, made impossibly creamy with melted cheddar and Gruyere, and topped with a bubbly bread crumb top. It is suitable for a family of ten, or just one hungry girl (read: me).

THIS REVIEW FIRST APPEARED IN PAPER MAGAZINE

Andrea Strong