the strong buzz, by andrea strong

“Dressler”

April 18, 2006
Colin Devlin, the handsome man behind Dumont and Dumont Burger unveiled his newest Williamsburg eatery this week, Dressler’s. But this one, owned with partner Joe Foglia, is cut from a very different cloth than anything else he has done, and anything else in that super hip land known as Billyburg. Dressler’s is taking a risk that Williamsburg is ready for something more, both in terms of food and design. Let’s start with the room, which is a gorgeous slice of Old New York smudged with a bit of Art Deco. It feels just a bit upscale, but in a comfortably chic way. The restaurant is fairly simple in design actually—mosaic tiled floors, high ceilings, exposed brick walls painted garnet red—but one element makes it hard to resist—stunning hand-carved iron, steel and metal work done by Robert Ferraroni and Jeff Kahn, friends of Colin’s and a wildly talented iron-worker from The Brooklyn Navy Yard (Ferra Designs). They have turned this space into a magnificent dining room that literally makes you catch your breath. (Restaurateurs, I encourage you to give this man a call. His work is truly stunning.) The long cornered bar is lit softly with hanging tavern lamps etched with intricately carved aluminum trim, and the walls are hung with hand-carved Deco-styled wrought iron light boxes, but the most stunning work area the oversized chandeliers (designed by Kahn) that hang in the dining room, with candelabra arms carved into willowy flowering tree branches, filled with little leaves that seem like they might come to life and start to flutter and blow in the breeze at any moment. Honestly people, go if only to see these chandeliers.

But lucky for us, it’s not just the chandeliers that are magical. Chefs Polo Dobkin and Cal Elliot are a gifted team who worked together at Dumont and have done stints at Gramercy Tavern. Their style reflects their training—clean and simple yet assertive flavors—seasonal American with a slight nod to the Mediterranean. Stacey, Court and I were very pleased with our dinner the other night. We began with three appetizers: silky slices of smoked sturgeon on a potato gallete topped with a frisee and arugula salad tossed with bits of hard boiled egg ($10), pan-roasted scallops with mache, juicy citrus supremes, roasted beets, and a balsamic drizzle ($12), and a crispy artichoke and white bean salad with baby arugula, Parmigiano Reggiano and a zippy artichoke vinaigrette ($9). While we enjoyed our starters, our entrees really showed off the kitchen’s skills. Court demolished his snapper—a crispy-skinned beauty served with baby bok choy, enoki mushrooms, and budding chives in a ginger-soy broth ($23). Stacey was all about the free form raviolo—a delicate pasta kerchief rolled into a sort of extra wide crepe filled with herbed ricotta that was served with sweet slow roasted tomatoes, mushrooms and bright English peas ($16). She finished it off with one of those smiles that you know says pleasure. And I loved my roasted chicken ($18)—it had a lovely golden brown skin, with meat so dense and moist it was almost like eating cake. It was served with a beautiful wave of new spring vegetables—ramps, fiddlehead ferns, asparagus and wild mushrooms. We all took part in the onion rings, that were really like onion donuts, so large and puffy and gloriously good. For dessert a fallen chocolate cake, lemon meringue tart, and a kaffir lime crème brulee finished us off. As Court and I walked back to the subway, we were already planning a return visit. We both agreed that we want a Dressler to open in our neighborhood. Until then, though, we’ll take the L train. Dressler is located at 149 Broadway, between Bedford and Driggs, 718-384-6343.

Andrea Strong