Anticipation. A word classically used to describe the turtle-slow release of that lava-like ketchup known as Heinz, and more recently, the opening of wonder-chef Wylie Dufresne’s WD50—a spacious restaurant filled with a mix of foodies, LES locals, and curious chefs on the prowl for inspiration. Mr. Dufresne’s spare menu provides plenty of it, offering provocative combinations of perfectly executed morsels on foam-and froth-swathed plates. If you crave simple, approachable comfort food, go somewhere else. Mr. Dufresne’s vision does not encompass such populist banality.

A winning appetizer of tender braised octopus came with pickled ramps, and mustard-laced potatoes, sprinkled with bright, brunoised grapes. Giant, cherry-red skinned shrimp ($14) arrived split down the belly, with precise cubes of creamy chickpea flan and an emerald ribbon of shiso pesto ($14). An amazing foie gras and anchovy terrine ($16) was flanked by a thin row of pink pomello pulp on the right, and a vibrant stripe of tarragon oil to the left. My favorite entrée was a seared Daurade, topped with a brilliant sort of salsa made from diced Chinese long beans and dried apricots that teetered on a mind-blowing mound of silken cauliflower-almond puree. Pastry chef Sam Mason is a high-wire artist, walking a tight rope between savory and sweet, playing up dangerous, no-net combinations like confited kumquats with sesame ice cream and soy caramel ($10), parsnip cake with coconut cream cheese sorbet ($10), and roasted pineapple with pineapple sorbet, crowned with a sexy, salty tuille made from baked Manchego cheese. Mayor Bloomberg might consider requiring one Mason dessert a day. Now that would be quality of life legislation.

WD50, 50 Clinton Street (b/w Stanton and Rivington), 212-477-2900

Andrea Strong