Welcome to the Caribbean edition of the Strong Buzz. While Andrea continues on maternity leave, I’m reporting from the island of enchantment--Puerto Rico. To me, Puerto Rico is a place of family and comfort; I have been visiting the island for 20 years as my husband’s roots there run deep.

When I visit, I always look forward to the local cuisine: favorites such as fritters, like the ubiquitous tostones (fried green plantains); pasteles (soft, delicious plantain tamales); lechon (whole roasted pig); and a good mix of rice and beans. It’s all familiar, comfort food, which I’m happy to indulge in, visit after visit. Sure, the island has its experimental eateries with the celeb chefs to go with them; but we always seemed to be searching for that one place that hits the perfect equilibrium between tradition and innovation. Leave it to a New Yorker to find that balance.

Ever go on vacation and fall in love with a quaint little B & B or homey restaurant, and then fantasize about chucking it all to run one? That’s exactly what happened to pedigreed NYC chef Kevin Roth (ex-Quilty’s, Compass, and Coup) and his wife, Idalia Garcia, on a recent visit to Fajardo on Puerto Rico’s East Coast. It wasn’t a tony inn or a tiny hole-in-the wall that won them over, however. The couple were completely charmed by…an abandoned gas station. Strange? Si. But they had a vision, and that vision turned the old pumps into a cafetin-style filling station for the soul.

La Estacion is a hugely refreshing addition to the area, which is noted mostly for the behemoth, overpriced resort, El Conquistador, down the road. (Breakfast for two? $70. A glass of OJ? $10). It’s nice to know that an authentic spot, where generosity extends from the warm welcome to the gentle prices, counterbalances such usury.

The eatery’s activity revolves around its large, outdoor deck, with its varied seating venues: intimate, white umbrella tables, rustic wooden benches, and long picnic tables, like the one where my party of 7 sat. The island breezes, tropical plants, and salsa music drifting from the indoor bar set the perfect tone for a long, relaxing repast. A skilled barkeep (try the tart-astic margaritas or the smooth Cocotazo, a combo of vodka, Frangelico and cream of coconut) and a pool table add a sense of fun.

We arrived after a day trip to gorgeous Culebra, and an afternoon of sun, swimming and snorkeling revved up our appetites. Our feast began with a terrific chayote salad ($7.50) featuring avocado, mango, and red pepper brightly bound with a passionfruit vinaigrette. Then we shared chicken skewers ($3) slathered in a sweet and spicy guava sauce which showed off Roth’s ‘cue savvy. Breadfruit tostones ($3.50), expertly fried, offered a lighter take on the usual, dense plantain bites.

The most surprising hit with the group was the Nathan’s “Nuyorican” hot dog ($3), wrapped in bacon, topped with avocado, and dusted with powdered pepper—my 9 year old niece anointed it, “joy in a bun.” Moistness marked my favorite, the mofongo (mashed plantains) ($22), dotted with chunks of dorado and shrimp. The carefully-marinated flavor of steaks, like the churrasco ($17), emerged through each tender bite, while a gentle smokiness touched meaty, slow-cooked pork ribs ($16.50). And even the fish-unfriendly of the group helped dismantle the carcass of a charred yet juicy whole snapper (MP@$28).

The conviviality of the place, the kindly service, and the chill vibe encouraged us to linger, and that we did. As the sun set, tiny lights lit up the patio, and the chirp of the native coquis kicked in, adding an extra touch of magic to the perfect day-ending meal. If only we could spend the night… I thought. Maybe cuddle up on a hammock…

That’s the effect La Estacion has on visitors. By dinner’s end, I completely understood Kevin and Idalia’s motivation to come on vacation and never leave, as I didn’t want to leave either. But I’ll be back, for sure. Maybe next time, I’ll inquire as to a staff position.

La Estacion is located at Carretera 987 Km 4.0, Las Croabas, Fajardo, PR www.laestacionpr.com 787-863-4481

—Kathleen Squires

Andrea Strong