It had been a beautiful day in the neighborhood when we set out to Bar Blanc Bistro, with an afternoon of neighborly moments, exchanging waves with the ex-cop bar owner on the corner and catching up with our favorite French framing guy on Bleecker. It also happened to be the day of our block association’s street fair; the air smelled of barbecue as local artists splayed their wares and residents unloaded garage-sale items (though we don’t have garages) all along Bedford, Barrow and Commerce Streets. When the sun set, and a jazz band kicked in, kids and the kids-at-heart danced in the streets. The warm-and-fuzzy feeling of community overflowed; it was one of those nights that I didn’t want to be anywhere else but the West Village.    

I love the pace of the Village, a beat slower than then rest of Manhattan. A sense of bohemia is still buried in its brick and mortar, with a fascinating, if eccentric, collection of characters—from Larry the “Collector of Bedford Street,” always panhandling for a good cause, to the supermodel who lives next to the music school. But what establishes the character of the neighborhood just as much as its people, and architecture, is the abundance of great food.   

So much of the West Village’s appeal relies on the restaurants we frequent, like Commerce, with its amazing bread basket, or Market Table, where I know I can always get a great soup. I look forward to an excellent cuppa and conversation from Patrick, the owner of Mojo on Charles, and I find the company of Matthew, the barkeep/owner of Bayard’s as refreshing as my pint of Smithwicks. I love the waitresses at Mary’s Fish Camp just as much as the crab beignets; I adore how the retired chef of Marinella’s still comes in twice a week to make lasagna; I’m always enthralled by the creations of chef Soto at his namesake, no matter how many times I go. I can count on the primo quality of proscioutto at Otto and the consistency of Mexicana Mama. And few things say comfort like a burger and tater tots at Daddy-Os or the truffled egg toast at ‘ino. The culinary charms are certainly plentiful, thanks to willing, and hungry, neighbors. Winning the local loyalty is the trick.     

When Bar Blanc opened about a year and a half ago, it won deserved critical acclaim for its food, garnering a spot on Esquire’s “Best New Restaurants” list and a solid two stars from the Times. Yet, when I first visited to write-up the restaurant for Citysearch, I felt a disconnect between its upscale menu (and prices) with the noise level, not to mention that the all-white décor was as welcoming as an ice cube. The formula didn’t exactly encourage regulars. And then the economy crashed… discouraging destination dining all over town. Owner Kiwon Standen smartly recognized that a retooling was in order.    

Adding “Bistro” to the name was the first signal that the restaurant was scaling down. A remodel of the formerly igloo-like interior came next. A cozy golden glow now softens the textured white walls while wood tones with ecru accents, like burlap drapes and grain sacks fashioned into pillows (much cuter than they sound on paper), add a relaxed warmth. 
   

A new bar menu, with all items $10 or under, certainly accommodates the times better. It’s a clever persuader for locals to stop in for a cocktail, perhaps the W. 10th St Iced Tea (sweet tea vodka, lemon and lime, $12), and munch on bites like white bean and olive tapenade crostini ($7), ham and fontina croquettes ($7) and fries ($6) with a choice of Dutch fry dips, such as Indian curry and chipotle. The wine list, re-organized into bottles “Under $50,” “Between $50-$100,” and “Reserve” is now much more user-friendly.
   

Chef Sebastiaan Zijp’s newly toned-down menu marries comfort with his classical French training, so that food and atmosphere are perfectly on par, with dishes richly simple, like the slow-roasted chicken breast with parsnip, comte gnocchi, leg meat confit and black truffle ($26), to the lushly light, such as salmon with braised escarole, roasted radish in chestnut white wine sauce ($26).
   

As I slipped into a cozy white leather banquette in the back room, New Order’s “Blue Monday” was playing on the sound system. That, plus a perky rose cava ($12) was enough for me to warrant repeat visits. The brightly-marinated pink sunfish ceviche ($16) with watermelon radish pickle and avocado mousse sparkled just as much as the cava, with just the right amount of salt and acid bolstering, not bullying, the inherent sweetness of the fish. And a salad of Boston lettuce, hearts of palm and poached egg ($12), tossed in a mustardy dressing, soothingly jibed, so much so it’s the first thing I’ll order when I go back.
   

For an entrée, I took a cue from the neighborhood character sitting next to me, coincidentally the talented character actor Peter Jacobson (House), and ordered the porchetta ($30), a heaping portion of tender pork loin stuffed with earthy morels and topped with pickled ramps. It was the quintessential early spring dish —substantial yet seasonal. And as if I was trying to increase a dress size in one sitting, I also ordered a side of the divine black truffle mac and cheese ($9), in which Zijp exhibits a mercifully spare hand on not only truffle, but cream and cheese. Though I was less impressed with the English pea risotto ($19) that my husband ordered, as it was a bit soupy for my taste, its fresh-from-the-garden flavor, however, was notable.
   

Thanks to my gut-expanding ordering technique, dessert was an impossibility, though I did like what I saw on the menu—with warm beignets, chocolate mousse, apple crisp, and crème brulee hitting all the right spots for sweet cravings. I also liked the looks of the new brunch menu: eggs en cocotte ($12) and chef Sebastiaan’s own hangover cure (eggs, chicken sausage, fingerling potatoes, caramelized shallots, $15). So, yes, Bar Blanc Bistro has now earned a spot on the regular rotation for me, as finally, the place fits in better with its locale. Welcome to the neighborhood (again).

–Kathleen Squires

Bar Blanc Bistro is located at 142 W. 10th St, 212-255-2330 www.barblanc.com

Andrea Strong