The Strong Buzz

“Red Rooster, by Rachel Barbarotta”

February 25, 2011

It often takes a lot to convince a New Yorker to travel very far for anything, and as a New Yorker myself, I can definitely understand why. We can have entire meals delivered to our door, can get just about any type of cuisine in any neighborhood, and never have to walk more than a block to find the nearest coffee shop. With everything in arms' reach, we're typically comfortable sticking with our own "neighborhood" spots, never further than a block or two away at any given time.

When Marcus Samuelsson opened Red Rooster on 126th Street in Harlem, my very first thought was, "You want me to go where?!" The prospect of traveling that far was daunting, but regardless of the 100-block distance between the restaurant and myself, I simply had to see what all the buzz was about. As former chef-owner of New York's Scandinavian hotspot Aquavit, Samuelsson is a chef that pushes boundaries with his cooking. By opening Red Rooster in Harlem, he also encourages diners to push their geographical boundaries by traveling far beyond their usual lower Manhattan neighborhoods.

About a month ago, I took the plunge and made a reservation for two at Red Rooster on a Sunday evening. On the night of our reservation, my boyfriend and I packed our appetites and our sense of adventure and hopped aboard the 2/3 bound for Harlem. The ride was much shorter than we expected, 100 blocks only took 15 minutes of our time, and we ascended the stairs into the chilly February air. The unfamiliar surroundings only added to our excitement and I immediately spotted the restaurant, the telltale red awning beckoning for us to enter.

From the moment we stepped inside the front door, I could feel the electricity buzzing around the cozy space. The walls of Red Rooster were covered with local art, adding to the homey feeling of the entire restaurant. A blackboard above the kitchen showed ingredients, recipes and the like, and a small “general store” was tucked into a corner but was not yet open for business. The entire front room was taken up by the enormous semi-circular bar, and through the glass at the end of the bar we could see into the lively dining room. Every table was full and every barstool was occupied by a balanced mix of intrepid downtown travelers checking out the latest in trendy restaurants and local Harlem residents out for some comfort food. Several patrons dined at the bar, seemingly having been there before and returning to sample the rest of the menu.

Since we had overestimated on travel time, we arrived 45 minutes early for our reservation and decided to have a drink at the bar while we waited for our table. We were excited to see a wide variety of cocktails on the menu, including several house-infused bourbons. I chose the Savoy ($10), a mix of Vodka, Lemon, Muddled Grapes and Agave, and my boyfriend chose the Brownstoner ($11), which was a Nutmeg-infused Bourbon mixed with Cherry Heering and St. Germain.

The bartender carefully mixed our drinks. They were both delicious; the Savoy was bright, crisp and refreshing while the Brownstoner was warm, deep and smooth, although the bartender was a little light on the pour. However, in keeping with Red Rooster's hospitable style, the bartender soon caught my boyfriend's eye, signaling that he was aware that the glass hadn't been completely full when poured, and offered the next drink on the house. This was a small detail that set a positive tone for the entire meal. By the time we had finished our drinks the table was ready.

We walked into the dining room and were shown to a cozy table for two facing the open kitchen. What a treat to dine while watching the chefs cook my food. The menu at Red Rooster is a collection of classic American dishes with a touch of Samuelsson's creative flair. He aims to celebrate the rich heritage of our national cuisine with his inventive style.

After much debate over what to order, we chose three dishes to start. First up, the Dirty Rice & Shrimp with Aged Basmati and Curry Leaves ($10), which was a rather small portion, but it certainly packed a lot of flavor. The shrimp were plump and well seasoned with just a touch of heat, and the rice was fragrant with savory and sweet spices.

The Chicken & Egg with Spicy Sauce & Seared Liver ($15) was like someting from a comfort food playbook:  a warm, hearty chicken stew, with seared chicken livers, topped off with a perfectly cooked egg that ran to every corner of the plate when broken.

The Pulled Pork with Rainbow Slaw & Lemon Aioli ($8) sandwich tasted strongly of vinegar, but it was a welcome spin on a classic dish.

Pleased with all three selections, we began to contemplate our main course options. Several friends who had dined at Red Rooster before us said we absolutely had to order the Fried Yard Bird with White Mace Gravy, Hot Sauce & Shake ($18) as an entree. Since the three appetizers had been rather filling, we decided to share it, along with two sides: Corn Bread with Honey Butter & Tomato Jam ($4) and Yam & Sweet Potato Puree with Bacon & Horseradish ($7). To pair with the Yard Bird, we each ordered a glass of South African Uva Mira Sauvignon Blanc ($11).

I’m not sure what yard this bird was plucked from, but they must be treating their birds quite well wherever it is because this baby was incredible. Flavorful and juicy with a skin that was amazingly greaseless: just a crispy golden brown. I was certainly impressed. The accompanying Corn Bread was more savory than it was sweet, and I used each slice like a mop to soak up the gravy from the Yard Bird. The Yam & Sweet Potato Puree was a little much – add on bacon and you may enter that dangerous territory of the long forgotten waistline, but it was quite tasty and therefore I continued to eat more despite the fact that I was at once too full to move.

There was simply no way we could have ordered dessert, so we requested the check and finished our glasses of wine. The service throughout the meal was attentive, never overbearing or lacking. While the restaurant can certainly become loud when crowded, it was never overwhelming in volume. The noise gave the restaurant a jolt of excitement that was apparent from the moment we set foot inside.

Our subway ride home clocked in at the same amount of time as our ride there, and it really got me thinking; 15 minutes isn't very much time at all. While we New Yorkers are used to walking only one block to get where we need to go, what's 15 minutes when you're traveling for an amazing meal in a previously undiscovered neighborhood? Why shouldn't we move beyond our comfort zones in search of new experiences and flavors? Dining at Red Rooster opened my eyes to what's available around the city.

Next time I'm craving delicious cocktails and inspired cuisine, I'll bypass the nearby options, ride the 2/3 train for 15 minutes and visit Red Rooster in the heart of Harlem.

Red Rooster is located at 310 Lenox Avenue (btw. 125th & 126th Street), 212-792-9001.

—Rachel Barbarotta

Andrea Strong