Had dinner at Le Caprice the other night with Steven and Kathy, and it was terrific. If you are scratching your head thinking, (a) what is Le Caprice, or (b) isn't that the London transplant that got panned last year in The New York Times, allow me to clear up the confusion.

To respond to (a), Le Caprice opened last fall at on Fifth Avenue and 61st Street, overlooking Central Park. It's owned by the London Restaurant group who own London restaurants like J. Sheekey, Daphne's, and The Ivy. The Le Caprice in London is a buzzy hub, kind of a cross between Michael's and Sardi's.

Here in New York, the restaurant, located off the lobby of the Pierre Hotel, is not a place I would normally dine, considering the hike from Brooklyn, but it's nice to be the youngest person in the room, and to feel fancy once in a while. Being near lots of famous folks -- Demi Moore and Ashton Kutcher had just eaten there that afternoon-- and a Baroness was dining in the far corner -- was also kind of exciting.

The restaurant is also quite striking. The long low space that has the feel of a ship, this one taking a cruise to old New York, with its sleek glossy black and white tiled floors, black lacquer walls, Deco sconces, and black and white photographs depicting the original sixties super model Jean Shrimpton shot in 1962 by David Bailey in New York. It's kind of like the Empire Diner but all grown up.

The place is the antithesis of Brooklyn Barnyard chic. There was not one handlebar mustache, or one vest and suspenders set in sight. What a nice change. The dining room was crowded with pairs of couples--women who take Core Fusion classes three times a day at Exhale, who arrive dressed in black sheaths and oversized pearls their hair fresh from a blowout at Fekkai with their troubled financier husbands in tow. At the roomy bar, there's an all-male martini meetup, where handsome older gentlemen in suits with crisp white pocket squares seem to be discussing their deals or their affairs (or both), and hotel guests dine solo with The Times and a burger.  

As to (b), the menu at Le Caprice has been completely revamped. The kitchen is now under the apt care of Executive Chef Edward Carew, a former New Yorker who has cooked under some of the city's most talented toques. He started out at Gramercy Tavern in 1997 under Tom Colicchio, and then worked his way up to Chef de Cuisine at Fiamma Osteria where he worked closely with the Executive Chef Michael White. Carew comes to New York from San Francisco where he was Executive Chef of the Florio Cafe, at The Cottage Eatery in Tiburon, and most recently at Café des Amis.

His menu at Le Caprice reflects his passion for seasonal American ingredients and his love of Italian food, but I'd say it's more uniquely Ed than reflective of any particular region or style of food. For instance, we started with a plate of crispy fried baby artichokes with an inside-out Béarnaise sauce (he uses cold butter instead of hot) that he hits with a nice handful of chopped dill. The combination was absolutely fantastic, the salty brininess of the artichokes getting tamed by the sweetness of the dill. It did not last long on our table. It simply vanished.

A fat crispy poached egg--its warm yellow center soft and runny against its hot, crunchy wrapper--is set on a bright and lemony spring salad of shaved asparagus and slices of tuna proscuitto. Seared skate, nicely browned from a hot buttery pan, comes in a lovely lobster reduction so intense that it seems to bring the rocky coast of Maine to the table, dotted with plump little gnocchi, more like pillows than pasta. A juicy lamb loin is served with a salad fresh diced favas and black eyed peas in burnt pepper and smoked anchovy sauce. Not your average little lamb. 

The menu continues to evolve as Ed spends more time in the kitchen, but even this early on the food is delicious, the sort that leaves you wanting more. While it's precious in presentation, it's food with soul, not just a pretty face. You can tell the guy cooking has tattoos under his chef whites. The result is an experience that, with the restaurant's wonderful service, is quite appealing all around. When you're ready to break out of the Barnyard, trust me, head to Le Caprice.

Le Caprice is located at 795 5th Avenue, (212) 940-8195, www.capriceny.com.

Andrea Strong