It’s not easy to serve a lobster roll in this town without earning (often harsh) comparisons to greats like Pearl Oyster Bar and Mary’s Fish Camp, and more recently shops like Ed’s Lobster Bar and the Red Hook Lobster Pound. It’s a sandwich that can create tension in relationships. Say I like Pearl and you like Mary’s. We may be friends, but we’ll never be soul mates, you know what I mean? Well, I may be losing some soul mates here when I announce that my new favorite lobster roll comes from none of these likely contenders. Nope. You’ll find it at a newish American tavern owned by Josh Früm (formerly of Blue Water Grill) and chef’d by Brian Murphy of Picholine in NYC and The Blue Plate in San Francisco.

It’s a lovely little restaurant and tavern called Monument Lane, and while it’s got some other wonderful food happening on its menu—including luscious pork belly with stone fruit, a nice fat juicy burger with skin-on fries, and some seriously good homemade pretzels that sort of resemble Combos (in shape only) served warm with a bowl of smoky gouda fondue—its most prized possession is its lobster roll. I’d pit this one against any of the greats and see it topple them all. The lobster roll at Monument Lane could have Jasper White sending his regulars at Summer Shack down to Greenwich Avenue in the dog days of August. It’s that good. But don’t take my word for it. Better yet, go try it for yourselves.

The Lobster Roll at Monument Lane

The sandwich ($25) is given its distinction by a number of things. First, is the quantity and quality of lobster meat. Containment inside the boundaries of the bun is not possible. You could easily make two sandwiches of the one, with a little extra for your toddler in tow. And while the meat is so sweet you don't really need to add much seasoning, the chef adds just the right amount of mayonnaise as a nice, slick vehicle for tarragon, salt, pepper, lemon, and little more. Finally, and perhaps critically, there’s the matter of the bun. It’s not served on a soft split top like you’d expect. The lobster in this case is contained (again, barely) by a griddled split top ciabatta bun, once that’s crisped up so that you get this great contrast in temperature and texture when you bite into the sandwich: the potato chip crunchiness of the ciabatta against the cool, luscious meat of the claws and tail. Fantastic. Add a cold beer (there are some nice ones on tap including a Stoudt’s Pils), and you’ll be ready to relocate from Maine to the West Village.

While I  might suggest that the place be called simply “EAT LOBSTSER ROLLS HERE,” its name has some historical significance. It’s revisits the stretch of Greenwich Avenue that was once called Monument Lane, and it feels like many of the good little taverns and locavore hangs you’ve probably been to of late. You’ll step on centuries-old floorboards, stroll past antique maps, and sit at tables made from reclaimed doors. The issue with all these nostalgic surfaces is that while they may look good, and make you feel as though you live some charmed colonial city, they don’t do much for the noise level of a buzzing post-industrial city. The restaurant is quite loud, as the hard floorboards, the big glass windows and the wood-beamed ceilings don’t give the space any sound cushion whatsoever. Voices just ricochet around the room and once it’s full you’ll have a hard time hearing your dining companions. Then again, when you can catch up with friends in 144 characters or less, who needs in-person dialogue? However, if you are one of those old timers (like me) that relishes a verbal exchange of ideas, well, come early, or at least before the tables of boys and girls arrive.

Kiri and I were unfortunate enough to be seated next to a table of about 15 very attractive girls, all of whom seemed unable to summon their inside voices. It became so unbearable that I was ready to call a Time Out for all, or to begin texting Kiri my thoughts rather than continue to shout. Since we are on the topic of noise, I should mention that Monument Lane seems positively Zen-like compared to the cacophony at The Dutch, which is a chamber of deafening noise. It should come with some sort of Surgeon General’s warning. I am a cranky old person now, aren’t I? I used to be a lot more fun, perhaps, but now I am 42. I like a nice conversation with my dinner.

Well, while I like a good conversation, I also like good food and there’s plenty to be had here. I don’t know the last time I had a mushroom and leek tart, but the one at Monument Lane makes me want to have one every day. (Bye-bye waist.) The tart ($12), served in a pretty fluted pastry shell, the sort that might otherwise contain blueberries and whipped cream, is overloaded with dark mushrooms that taste just foraged, melting with leeks and butter, with a big, beautiful red oak leaf lettuce salad tossed in a blue cheese dressing on the side. The salad is a nice touch, adding a little sharpness to the warm earthy flavors of the mushroom and butter, err, leek tart.

While the lobster roll is a showstopper, chef Murphy also excels at the art of the burger. His patty is thick and juicy, and topped with a hot and gooey mess of shredded cheddar and American cheeses, with crispy onions and a nice aioli ($16). It’s the perfect two-handed supper. While many of the plates on Murphy’s menu might happily be consumed at the comfortable bar with a cold pint or one of their well-made house cocktails (and the company of one of their very affable barmen), the chef also excels at more delicate expressions. Take his sea bass, for example. A crispy skinned filet is served in a stunning lobster stock so rich it should come with its own trophy wife, brimming with littleneck clams and spring onions. It’s a beautiful dish and a delight to eat. Ditto the appetizer of pork belly, braised until melting under a cap of smoky skin, brightened with sweet caramelized chunks of stone fruit ($14). Yum.

Monument Lane reminds me of several restaurants in my book that I list among my all time favorite regular haunts, places like Five Points, Buttermilk Channel, and Char No. 4. The restaurant has a good spirit. It serves the sort of food you want to eat any night of the week, and it’s staffed with people who make you feel welcome and happy. Really. They make you want to be nicer; to say thank you and really mean it. It more than makes up for the noise level. And of course, there’s that lobster roll. Oh, my.

Monument Lane is located at 103 Greenwich Ave (at West 12th Street), 212.255.0155, www.monumentlane.com.

Andrea Strong