Few things bring me back to my childhood in the same way that the scent of onions, lemons, and herbs do. Being of Greek descent by way of Sparta, I was raised by a family of great cooks and woke up to this aroma trifecta nearly every day. My Yia Yia passed away earlier this year, and my dinner at Loi was the closest I have come to one of her authentic meals in a long time. The dishes were without scratches, the linens were crisper, and the vast space with panoramic photos of Grecian waters certainly didn’t look like home, but with every bite, it definitely started to feel like it.

Chef Maria Loi has been referred to as the Greek Rachael Ray and Martha Stewart; with her own cooking show in Greece and many cookbooks under her belt, she brings her talents to New York City for her first restaurant venture, Loi. New Yorkers are adventurous eaters, but true Greek food has nothing to do with adventure and everything to do with quality ingredients and fresh, fresh, flavor. I visited Greece a few months ago and have never eaten so cleanly in my life; I got sick the week I returned to the US because my stomach wasn’t used to processed food. It was unbelievable.

Chef Maria’s style of cooking also happens to be delicious and relatable, making Loi a perfect spot for Greeks and Americans alike. She spoke to me for a bit about her restaurant and gave some of her favorite dishes off the menu, even though she was slightly disappointed when she discovered that my guest and I do not speak Greek. Please note I had to admit this at least three more times to three different waiters throughout the course of the evening.

The pita bread is served toasted and warm from the oven, with plain greek yogurt and olive oil for dipping. This was one area where I felt slighted - I love tzatziki sauce, and this wasn’t that. Tzatziki is greek yogurt mixed with cucumbers, garlic, lemon juice and dill. It’s a classic dip served with pita bread and/or meat…this was just plain yogurt. The dolmades made up for it though; tiny, briny bites of grape leaves stuffed with a lemon and olive oil-soaked rice mixture.

Normally, these are not very exciting to me, but I could have eaten ten of them from Loi. The lemony punch makes a huge difference, as does the diminutive size – they’re like a tangy amuse bouche.
Like Italians, the Greeks have a love for meat and carbs. I was torn between the pastitsio, a classic Greek-style lasagna with pasta, béchamel sauce, beef and cheese. It’s heavy, but worth it if done right, and I hate to say this, but Loi’s version rivals my Moms. Yes, I said it. Honestly, I thought it was perfectly portioned, seasoned and cooked. The layers blended beautifully and it wasn’t overly salty, a common affliction of pastitsio. Sorry Mom.  

If meat is your go-to, then don’t pass up the rack of lamb – some pieces were fatty, but like my Yia Yia would say, that’s where the flavor is. Only disappointing accoutrement of this dish were the “mashed lemon potatoes”. Bursting with lemon, garlic and oregano, lemon potatoes are one of my favorite side dishes in Greek cuisine, so I thought these would be the same potatoes, just whipped down into a creamy side. Unfortunately, these were “smashed” lemon potatoes, meaning whole baby potatoes roasted or broiled in the oven and “smashed” slightly with your palm after they’re done cooking. Guess that one got lost in translation...

Greek desserts are symbolic of their idea of hospitality: sweet, sometimes excessive, but always reliable. Baklava, the classic tower of phyllo layers and chopped nuts soaked in honey syrup was sticky, sweet and crunchy. Galaktoboureko (good luck pronouncing that one) is a semolina-custard soaked in lemon-orange or lemon-honey syrup, then topped with kataifi (shredded wheat) or traditionally, phyllo dough. It might sound intense, but it’s a much more subtle dessert than baklava, with just a hint of sweetness and grainy texture.

Last but not certainly not least is the myzithropita, which is like a Greek cheesecake made with myzithra cheese (similar to ricotta), lemon, sugar, eggs and the other cheesecake usual suspects. This is far from ordinary though, as it is topped with a generous layer of fragrant cinnamon and kataifi, adding that sweet and spicy aroma to the creamy cheesecake. Loi’s version also had a layer of honey-soaked chopped nuts on the bottom, which put it completely over the top. Yia Yia would be proud.

Loi is located on 208 West 70th street between Amsterdam and West End Avenues.

In addition to being a lovely, comfortable dining space with ample bar (and leg) room, it’s a perfect place to host a party for your next big Greek get-together, with three private rooms that can seat up to 44 people.

--Dara Pollak 

Andrea Strong