“American Cuisine” sounds, frankly, pretty boring. Where’s the exoticism? The mystery? The je-ne-sais-quoi?

Well, stifle that yawn. Stifle it right now. Because Cole’s Greenwich Village, Penny Bradley’s newest addition to the restaurant scene introduced at the beginning of February, is the surprising sort of dining experience that makes a staycation in frigid, blustery, brown-slushy Manhattan seem like a perfectly wonderful destination spot.

The restaurant itself, in keeping with the bones of its former Lyon occupant, seems like a cozy trip to a friend’s slightly-too-small-but-nonetheless-inviting living room. The 50s-style white walls with black accents (courtesy of Steven Gambrel’s design) and the multiple subtle wall hangings lend quite the “Start Spreadin’ The News” quality to the ambiance. Waiters dressed in traditional black-and-white uniforms squeeze their way between guests leaning back in their simple wooden chairs, the scene illuminated softly by the dim, unassuming lighting. Only Lyon’s bar area remains as it once was, crowded to capacity (at 6:30!) with sophisticated Manhattanites in search of a posh post-work cocktail.

While the old-timey atmosphere may draw customers in, it is Chef Daniel Eardley (formerly of Brooklyn’s now-closed Chestnut) who delivers the kind of meal that makes those dining want to sit down and stay a while. Like, maybe forever.

Whether those dining are looking for a light, fresh meal, or something that will really stick to their ribs, Chef Eardley can (and does) provide a truly memorable spread, unforgettable aesthetically as well as palatably.

The first not-to-miss item on the menu is the crostini. Please, try the crostini. It is almost the most beautiful dish on the menu. Perfectly grilled bread slathered with fresh apple butter, purple radicchio, bright red pomegranate seeds, orange bocha squash, and topped with blue cheese and aged balsamic vinegar. It’s like eating a delicious sunset. This starter is sweet, tart, bitter, crunch and savory. As my guest put it, “I feel like I could fast for days and then just eat a bunch of these”. If there is any indication that one should consider continuing past appetizers, the crostini is it.

Skip the sardines and duck fat potatoes. Though the description makes mouths water, the flavor combination is a tad too subtle, and lacks the kapow of the other dishes.

For those who fancy a lighter appetizer, the chopped root vegetable salad is truly a treat. The perfect balance of salty (feta cheese) to sweet (sweet squash) to tart (sherry vinaigrette), this dish warms up the taste buds for any possible flavor the oncoming main dish might provide. Pepitas add a nice crunch, serving as a great alternative to the predictable slivered almonds of salads past. And if the fresh (ha), creative take on the standard salad didn’t reel you in, consider this: great way to get those veggies in!

The cod. Oh, the cod. Served with the restaurant’s signature simplicity, this delicate fish is certainly one of the best dishes on the menu. Perfectly cooked, oh-so-tender with a lovely golden crust, accompanied by a slightly salty but silky smooth cauliflower puree.

Finally, the dessert – and I mean ALL of the dessert – would be a crime not to mention. Pastry chef Emily Hanky lends an excellence to the menu that wraps up the meal like a fancy silk ribbon. Our favorite was the pudding with peanut butter mousse: warm, gooey, melty, and topped with a hint of salt. We wept. And we hope to weep again in the very near future.

Cole’s Greenwich Village is located at 118 Greenwich Ave, New York, (212) 242-5966.

—Claire Jaffe

Andrea Strong