From the owner of Citarella chain of gourmet fish markets comes this upscale, modern Rockefeller Center-area restaurant. With access to the best fish in New York, Joseph;s is a seafood lover’s paradise, with a first rate sushi bar and lively, deep blue sea-toned, after-work cocktail lounge on the ground floor (with some of the most fantastic cocktails this side of Prohibition), and a more elegant, earth-toned dining digs upstairs. The kitchen offers creative takes on seasonal seafood entrees (crab cakes and sautéed sand dabs are signatures), and one or two dishes for meat eaters, though it would be a shame to miss the delicious dishes that honor the ocean’s bounty. Pastry chef Bill Yosses (also a Bouley alumn) is a wonder with sugar and spice and everything nice, so don't miss his whimsical creations. If his adult version of the Devil Dog is on the menu, order a few, and a glass of milk.

Citarella the Restaurant, 1240 Sixth Avenue, at 49th Street, 212-33201515.

REPRINTED FROM THE MOBIL TRAVEL GUIDE

Andrea Strong