LIMA'S TASTE

Lima's Taste does terrific Peruvian home-cooking, probably because Nellie, the chef, is cooking the recipes she learned at her mother’s side in Peru. Nellie learned well. She serves gorgeous ceviches, like the tiradito, lustrous slivers of white fish in a fiery sauce made from lime and lemon juices and rocoto peppers ($11). I also love the papa relleno (though it is not for those who have a dainty appetite)—a softball sized round of deep-fried mashed potatoes filled up in the center with pulled beef, raisins and olives ($7). For those with a weakness for paella, try the green paella, served in a little pot, with assorted seafood, chicken and sausage ($18).

LIMA'S TASTE (432 East 13th Street, b/w 1st Avenue and Avenue A, 212-228-7900)/

Andrea Strong