the buzz

“New Neapolitan Pizza in Brooklyn Heights ”

Montague Street in Brooklyn Heights has about as many good restaurants as Tim Tebow has lovers. So I was happy to see a new place open on Hicks Street in the former Overtures space right off of Montague Street. It’s called Dellarocco’s of Brooklyn and it’s owned by Brooklyn-bred brothers Greg and Glenn Markman and Joseph Secondino who also own The Heights Café next door. To do the cooking, they’ve hired Pasquale Cozzolino, a chef from Naples. Smart move. The guy has a nice way with pizza. Which makes the place is a godsend for the neighborhood.

The long marble bar serves a dozen beers on tap along with a modest wine list. Saddle up and grab a stool solo or bring the family and snag one of their bistro tables for their very good Neapolitan style wood-fired pizzas—a lightweight crust with bubbly edges, in Margherita, Marinara, Capricciosa (with mushroom, artichoke, prosciutto cotto, and Gaeta olives), Burrata (with zucchini cream, speck and burrata), and Salsiccia (mozzarella, sausage and mushroom) options, among others. Their calzones are diamond-shaped and wildly good, puffed up until pillowy and filled with the likes of mozzarella, broccoli rabe and sweet Italian sausage ($15). The menu also offers a short selection of fresh salads and appetizers like meatballs ($11), salumi and cheese boards ($18), and caponata.  

Our avocado salad ($9) was terrific: spinach, red onion, cherry tomatoes, orange supremes and diced avocado in a lemony vinaigrette. Emily (who is three) loved it too, and she devoured the salad’s avocado in about five minutes, and of course wanted more. Apologizing, I asked the waitress for more avocado for the salad, expecting to be told it would be an additional charge. But her answer was: No problem. And our Emily was served another healthy dose of avocado in an instant. Emily gave the pizza two thumbs up and said she’d like to return again. I agree with her.

And if you are there with your kids—or you just like having ice cream for dessert—be sure to order the classic tartufo, a snowball of gelato coated in a chocolate shell ($6). Yummy.

Dellarocco’s is located at 214 Hicks Street, 718-858-1010, dellaroccospizza.com. Open Daily Noon-10:30. Free Delivery.

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