the buzz

“Model 'Cue”

The rib-to-person ratio in the Flatiron district has just gone up considerably as Rub, Blue Smoke and Hill Country now welcome (or shun as the case may be) Wildwood, Steve Hanson’s debut into the art of ‘cue.

With this incarnation of his lower Park Avenue South space, it seems he’s finally truly exorcised all the design demons of Barça 18 and Park Avalon. Other than the revolving door that remains (though papered over with cork or wood of some sort?), the restaurant has a completely new dynamic and design. It’s a high energy, rough and tumble (certified Green) urban ‘cue joint marked by wrought iron bars and rough planks of recycled wood, with a festive bar (made from recycled wood and paper), serving something wonderful called Cold-Ass beer on tap (brewed in Pennsylvania, no joke) alongside Abita Turbodog, and a peppery tequila drink called the Tequila Sunbolt that goes down way too easy.

The menu starts out with beer-battered jalapenos ($4.95), a vegetarian low country chili ($7.25), a Jailhouse chili with smoked brisket ($8), smoky hot wings ($9/$14), and assorted salads which all seem superfluous to the main attraction: the ‘cue.

The all-natural meat menu (the menu boasts that Wildwood is the only barbecue restaurant in the country doing all natural meat) comes smoky and moist, courtesy of Hill Country ex-pat Big Lou Elrose. His Hickory smokers are turning out North Carolina pulled pork ($9), Bell & Evans Applewood smoked chicken glazed in apricot BBQ sauce ($11), pork spare ribs, beef shorts ribs ($18), Texas slow smoked brisket ($11), smoked Texas or jalapeño sausages ($6), Denver lamb ribs ($21), and Memphis-style baby backs ($16/$25).

For dessert, pastry chef Elizabeth Katz seems to have gone a bit mad. (In a good way.) She’s serving desserts large enough for a family of four. There’s a carrot cake with cream cheese and coconut frosting the height of a toddler, ditto an 8-layer chocolate fudge cake, along with gallon-sized bourbon banana Nilla wafer sundaes, and adorable (normally sized) homemade dark chocolate and peanut butter s’mores (all $6).

Well I guess it makes sense. It’s barbecue after all. There’s nothing dainty or small about it. It’s supposed to be big, fattening, messy, and fun, and Wildwood delivers on all counts.

Wildwood is located at 225 Park Avenue South at 18th Street, 212-533-2500.  

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