<< previous   next >>

pot luck

“Sarabande: A Once Forbidden Dance, A Charismatic Cheese”

Sarabande is produced by Dancing Cow Farm, Bridport, VT and is a farmstead, raw cow's milk cheese with a washed rind that's aged 60 days.

Producers Steve and Karen Getz spent a full year agonizing over what to call their dairy farm until they were telling a visitor about how the cows behave when they are first let out on spring pastures, running, snorting and kicking up their heels- a joyous sort of dance celebrating the new green grasses. The answer became obvious: Dancing Cow. Listening to this couple describe the farming practices they have implemented on their 243 acre farm in Bridport, Vermont- rotational grazing, seasonal breeding, production of all of their own hay- it is hard to imagine that just 6 years ago neither Karen nor Steve had ever milked a cow. Their desire to make cheese and become dairy farmers evolved from their experiences with the food movement in California years ago- where they became interested in producing and consuming sustainable and delicious food. Currently they are milking 30 cows with a variety of breeds in the herd, the milk flows straight from the milking parlor into the cheese vat and is not heat treated prior to cheesemaking. "We felt really strong about starting with really good milk, our cheese will only be as good as the milk we start with." The Getzes feel that the cheeses they produce are vehicles for showcasing the complex and flavorful milk that comes from their grass-fed cows. When it came time to name their cheeses, it seemed most appropriate to name them after established dances in honor of their "dancing cows".

The Cheese:

Sarabande definitely honors its namesake, a dance that originated centuries ago and has a checkered past including a temporary ban for its erotic moves. Much to the dismay of some French cheese purists, this cheese is made in a whimsical truncated pyramid shape that one might expect from a traditional French goat cheese. The rind is a pinkish orange color, a result of the repeated bathing of the cheese in brine and specialized bacteria during its aging, and the interior is a soft golden color that the producers attribute to the grass-based diet of their mixed herd. The bacteria on the rind break down the cheese into a pudgy pyramid without making the paste so runny that its exterior bursts.Not pungent enough to put off the beginner while adequately complex enough for the veteran with its combination beefy undertones and flirty, slightly sweet finish, this is a fantastic washed rind cheese for cheese enthusiasts and novices alike.

Pair with:

Wines: The acidity of a Riesling with cut through the fatty texture of this cheese without combating the flavors. A Vouvray like the Vouvray by Prince Poniatowski, 1990, might offer a bit more creaminess to match the cheese but bring enough acidity to balance things out. A white Rioja like the Lopez de Heredia, 1989, or a Riesling like the Selbach-Oster Spatlese or Auslese, Mosel 2005, or even a Sherry could be fun to bring out some of those nutty, caramelized notes in the cheese.

Beer: A brown ale or toasted lager like the Blue Point Toasted Lager (NY), or Wolaver's Organic Brown Ale (VT), will bring out the sweeter notes in the cheese while still allowing the meaty side to come through.

Condiments: Dates and dark honeys, like buckwheat or chestnut will bring out sweeter notes in the cheese.

Available at:

Artisanal Premium Cheese, www.artisanalcheese.com

Farmstead, 186 Wayland Ave, Providence, RI, www.farmsteadinc.com

Marlow & Sons, 81 Broadway, Williamsburg

Saxelby Cheesemongers, Essex Street Market at Delancey

--Sasha Davies, Strong Buzz Cheese Correspondent

 

<< previous   next >>

Posted: February 11, 2008

Share ! Post a comment