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“Robiola a 3 Latti: The Perfect Summer Cheese”

This month, The Strong Buzz Cheese Wiz Sasha Davies talks about Robiola a 3 Latti, a mold-ripened cow, sheep and goat milk cheese from the Langhe region in Italy produced by affineur Luigi Guffanti. Read on to find out more about why you need to bring this cheese home with you today.

 

The Producers:

What can be said about Robiola that has not been said before? It almost doesn't matter because this family of cheeses is so delicious it requires little to no preamble. Robiola cheeses usually range from 5-12 ounces and are made in a disc shape though I have occasionally seen them in squares. What is certain about them is that one could likely travel for months within the Piedmont region (their home), eating Robiola daily, and never encounter the same one. Whether it is in the combination of milk types or the type of leaf enveloping the cheese, each town produces something unique.

The Robiola a 3 Latti I purchased is from Luigi Guffanti who is both an affineur and a creamery so he has the capability to purchase milk from surrounding farms and actually produce cheeses and he can also purchase cheeses made by local producers, age them and ship them throughout Europe and around the globe. Guffanti also sells a variety of Italian classics including other Robiola.

In the case of a cheese as young as the Robiolas I am always a bit surprised by producers who are willing to send their cheeses to someone like Guffanti who puts his label on them and sends them out. It is a testament to the challenges of being an exporter and even a distributor that for the producers this system is still in place.
Robiola Roccaverano is the only Robiola with a DOP status (Denominazione di origine controllata) meaning that the production of the cheese and the region in which it is made are regulated. These regulations cover everything from milk handling to aging. Young cheeses, like the Robiola, that are made for export are pasteurized but if you are traveling in Italy you should not have any problems finding raw milk Robiola.

The Cheese:

Robiola a 3 Latti should have a rind that reminds you of a brain coral, or just a brain. The exterior is off white and the interior is a bit brighter white with a fresh, cakey texture. Depending on the age and handling of the cheese the bit right beneath the rind can be somewhat runny or it can be dense and creamy. If the cheese is more dry that just means that the flavors will be more concentrated and intense and considering how great the flavors are that is just fine. The only thing you want to look out for when selecting this cheese is that the rind is not wet and mooshy. Once these rinds get wet (like from droplets of condensation inside their wrappers touching them) they begin to die and they let off some unpleasant odors.

The cheese does have a nudge (not a kick) of barnyard flavors but the nudge is balanced well by great acidity and wonderful lactic flavors. Anyone who enjoys the Italian cheese called La Tur, also made from all three milks, will find this cheese to be the perfect next step along their cheese continuum- Robiola 3 Latti has the wonderful La Tur characteristics you're used to plus some fantastic extras.

Pair with:
Wines- Go with terroir-based pairings on this one. So many terrific wines are coming from the Piedmont region that it seems a shame to pass them up. For a white try Gavi, Nuova Abbazia di Vallechiara – 2006 ($14.99) which has nice citrus notes and great minerality to balance the creaminess in the cheese. An interesting red would be Barbera d'Asti "Bric dei Banditi", Franco Martinetti – 2006 ($18.99). The Barbera from Asti have luscious fruit flavors without the tannic backbone.

Beer- Birreria Baladin's Nora. You can find this one at the Whole Foods Beer Shoppe. The beer has a surprisingly floral bouquet on the nose but actually uses very little hops so there is not the normal bitter bite one expects after that.

Condiments- There are some lovely honeys that have nuts in the jar with them- that is what I would look for to pair with this honey. Something about hazelnuts and honey would hit the perfect note with this cheese.

American Counterpart- There isn't one!

Available at:
Artisanal Cheese: www.artisanalcheese.com (aka Robiola Rochetta)
Ideal Cheese Shop: 942 First Avenue (at 52nd), NY
Whole Foods: Bowery and Union Square Locations
Stinky Brooklyn: 261 Smith Street Brooklyn, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn

—Sasha Davies

 

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Posted: July 2, 2008

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