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“Travel Dispatch: Australia's Undiscovered Wine Region: Orange ”

In this week's edition of Pot Luck, the Strong Buzz Wine Correspondent Joe Watson reports on this under-the-radar wine country in Australia

Now that the deep of winter is setting in, the pursuit of a warm and sunny escape is turning my attention to destinations south. I’m reminded of a little known wine region in Australia – just a few hours outside of Sydney in New South Wales – called Orange. The Orange wine region (which encompasses the local government areas of Orange, Cabonne and Blayney), located on the slopes of Mt Canobolas (one of the world’s oldest volcanoes), is the highest altitude wine-producing region in all of Australia. While Shiraz and Cabernet have reigned historically, the high altitude is ideal for cooler climate varietals and indeed, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling are the break out wines of recent years.

The wine industry in Orange dates back to the early eighties. Ironically, the area was known primarily for its apple orchards up to a few years ago. Happily, a burgeoning culinary scene (Orange is at the center of a growing regional slow food movement) has spawned a number of great markets, restaurants, and a regional cooking school. There is actually much debate between the foodies and the winos of the area, as to who came first!

If you happen to be lucky enough to be passing through the area this winter, do yourself a favor and take a little detour to Orange. The area offers a wide cross section of accommodations, from the ubiquitous country pub hotels (such as the Hotel Canobolas), traditionally the province of traveling salesmen (these are largely Spartan – think YMCA rooms - but evocative of a time gone by). There are also modern Travel Lodges, Cozy Bed and Breakfasts ranging from quaint to luxurious (The Arancia Bed and Breakfast), and most recently a luxury Boutique Hotel (The De Russie of Orange).

The Anson Teahouse and Eatery, located in the heart of Orange proper, is a fine place to start off the day with a little ‘brekky’. Owner Kate Marsh pours, in my humble opinion, the best coffee in town. If you would like to tour the wineries and do a little tasting, I recommend that you call ahead, as the majority of cellar doors (tasting rooms) are by appointment. The good news is that all the wineries are within convenient proximity of the center of town (usually within a 10 -20 minute drive).

Some of my favorites are Mayfield, Bloodwood, Indigo Ridge, Canobolas Smith, and Philip Shaw. Philip Shaw (and his second label Cumulus) are the Orange wines most widely available stateside. Unfortunately, there is not a great deal of wine from Orange imported into the U.S., as there is not a huge amount of wine produced. Philip Shaw’s cellar door is particularly pretty, overlooking large blocks of his vineyards. Shaw’s vines are among the highest altitude grown in the area (The ’06 Pinot Noir was recently judged one of the top wines of NSW- and is delicious).

Back in town, you can visit Belgravia at Union Bank, a stylish Wine Bar housed in a converted bank building, which also houses the cellar door for the Belgravia Winery. If you’re interested in learning more about the emerging culinary scene in the area, contact Lesley Russell at the Orange Regional Cooking School. There are a number of standout restaurants in town as well. Selkirk’s, housed on a quaint residential block, is a bit of an institution in Orange. Owner/Chef Michael Manners is considered a founding father of the local culinary scene. The restaurant has built its reputation on simple food with well-balanced flavors and a focus on local ingredients. If your time in Orange should happen to correspond with the monthly farmer’s market, I would highly recommend taking a look.

Between the great food, the friendly atmosphere, and the bounty of new and exciting wines in this up and coming region, it can truly be said that Orange isn’t just for apples anymore!

Where to Stay

Hotel Canobolas – 248 Summer St., Orange NSW 2800 hotel.canobolas@westnet.com.au

Ambassador International Motor Inn – 174 Bathurst Rd, Orange NSW 2800 tel 02 6393 7500

Arancia Bed and Breakfast – Wrights Lane, PO Box 1920, Orange NSW 2800 www.arancia.com.au

The De Russie of Orange – 72 Hill St., Orange NSW 2800 www.derussiehotels.com.au

Where to Eat

The Anson Teahouse & Eatery – 186A Anson St., Orange tel 02 6362 1908

Lolli Redini – 48 Sale St., Orange NSW 2800 www.lolliredini.com.auestaurant

The Shoolhouse at Mayfield Vineyard – 954 Icely Rd., Orange 2800 tel 02 6365 9295

Selkirks Restaurant – 179 Anson St., Orange NSW 2800 www.selkirks.com.au

Where to Taste

Canobolas – Smith Wines – Cargo Road, Orange NSW 2800 tel 02 6365 6113

Indigo Ridge Wines – Icely Road, Orange NSW 2800 tel 02 6362 1851

Bloodwood Wines – Griffin Road – Orange NSW 2800 www.bloodwood.com.au

Philip Shaw- Koomooloo Vineyard – Caldwell Lane, Orange NSW 2800 tel 02 6365 2334

Belgravia at Union Bank – Sale St., Orange NSW 2800 tel 02 6361 4441

—Joe Watson is the sommelier and owner of Vine Wine Bar in Greenport, NY.

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Posted: February 20, 2008

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