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“Setting a New Benchmark”

There was a time when you couldn’t keep up with all the new restaurants opening in Manhattan. Well, now that time has come to Brooklyn’s ever-expanding culinary scene. If you haven’t heard, Benchmark, one of the latest in Park Slope, has been open for nearly a month. 

This joint venture between Executive Chef Ryan Jaronik and partner German Montana features new American cuisine, with a focus on pasture-raised meats and locally-grown produce. Jaronik — who lives in Brooklyn but has worked in Chicago’s TRU Restaurant and also lead the well-known Masa in Boston before heading to Monkey Town in Williamsburg — combines American cooking techniques with “global” influences, especially with steaks and chops.

The menu is reasonably priced and a quick peek has us salivating over appetizer dishes like seared Maine diver scallops (served with applewood-smoked apples, cauliflower and black garlic; $10) and chorizo-stuffed chicken wings (which comes with a blue cheese fondue; $9). Meat lovers will be very happy here.  On the entrée side (besides a carnivore-friendly  a la crate menu that includes a 24 oz. bone-in ribeye), a lamb belly gnocchi (over roasted tomatoes, feta, olives, fresh mint; $18) to American Kobe steak (served with goat cheese whipped potatoes, creamed chard, crisp onion, onion fondue; $22) stand out. The restaurant plans to open an aging-room for house dry-aged beef and cured sausages soon.

As appealing as the food is, the location has a nice story, too. Between the 1920’s and 40’s, Benchmark’s space was used as an icehouse, where goods arriving from the Gowanus Canal would be temporarily stored. The items would be transported from the canal through a series of underground tunnels. Today, you’ll walk through 52-seat garden patio entrance before entering the 45-seat dining room with its rustic interior featuring exposed brick, arched windows, banquettes and warm pendant lighting. No wonder restaurants keep opening in Brooklyn. 

Benchmark is located at 339-A Second St. (at Fifth Ave.) in Park Slope, 718-965-7040, www.benchmarkrestaurant.com.

Dinner is served Tuesday through Sunday and brunch service is expected later this spring.

 
— Bao Ong

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Posted: March 14, 2010 - 3:30 pm

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