<< previous review   next review >>

reviews

“5 Napkin Burger”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Hell's Kitchen	Moderate	Good

rave;me fraiche, white cheddar and cilantro. It reminded me of a tortilla soup but with pork instead of chicken ($9.50).

Andy gets a bit misty-eyed for retro plates and we enjoyed several of them. The first was Crab Louis with Ritz Crackers and cucumbers ($12.95), a dish that dates to 1915. It’s a sort of lobster salad with large lumps of sweet lump crab standing in for lobster that gets dressed in homemade sauce that’s not far from Russian dressing. Spooned on a Ritz cracker, it’s cool and refreshing, and appealing on a hot summer night. Andy’s BLT salad didn’t really impress, though. A wedge of iceberg is topped with crisped dry bacon and tomatoes, and drizzled with French dressing. I don’t know, to me it was a rather uninspired combination as a salad, but maybe I am just more of a blue cheese girl when it comes to iceberg. Next time, I’m having the Szechuan chicken salad or the chipotle pork. But I was impressed with the Steak Diane ($22.50), a dish I haven’t had in years (if ever): a tidy and tender eight-ounce strip steak topped with sautéed mushrooms, set in a puddle of brandied mustard sauce—nice!—with a side of roasted potatoes. It’s the kind of dish I imagine the guys on Mad Men having at lunch, right before they roll out the cocktail cart and the girls.

For dessert, we had a towering slice of fairly dry 7-layer blackout cake and a warm homemade blueberry pie that tasted fresh from the windowsill with a buttery crust and scoop of vanilla ice cream. The menu also includes a selection of thick shakes and malteds, which may be necessary next time I stop in for my 5 Napkin Burger (and matching fries) fix. I mean I guess conceivably I could go to dinner and not have the 5 Napkin Burger, but would you go to a shop called Cleavage to shop for shoes?

5 Napkin Burger is located at 630 9th Avenue at 45th Street, 212-757-2277.

Page 1  |  Page 2  |  Page 3  

 Make a reservation

<< previous review   next review >>

Posted: August 3, 2008

Other restaurants in Hell's Kitchen :
+ Nizza   + 5 Napkin Burger   + Danji   

Share ! Post a comment