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“Le Caprice”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Upper East Side	Moderate	Great

de Cuisine at Fiamma Osteria where he worked closely with the Executive Chef Michael White. Carew comes to New York from San Francisco where he was Executive Chef of the Florio Cafe, at The Cottage Eatery in Tiburon, and most recently at Café des Amis.

His menu at Le Caprice reflects his passion for seasonal American ingredients and his love of Italian food, but I'd say it's more uniquely Ed than reflective of any particular region or style of food. For instance, we started with a plate of crispy fried baby artichokes with an inside-out Béarnaise sauce (he uses cold butter instead of hot) that he hits with a nice handful of chopped dill. The combination was absolutely fantastic, the salty brininess of the artichokes getting tamed by the sweetness of the dill. It did not last long on our table. It simply vanished.

A fat crispy poached egg--its warm yellow center soft and runny against its hot, crunchy wrapper--is set on a bright and lemony spring salad of shaved asparagus and slices of tuna proscuitto. Seared skate, nicely browned from a hot buttery pan, comes in a lovely lobster reduction so intense that it seems to bring the rocky coast of Maine to the table, dotted with plump little gnocchi, more like pillows than pasta. A juicy lamb loin is served with a salad fresh diced favas and black eyed peas in burnt pepper and smoked anchovy sauce. Not your average little lamb. 

The menu continues to evolve as Ed spends more time in the kitchen, but even this early on the food is delicious, the sort that leaves you wanting more. While it's precious in presentation, it's food with soul, not just a pretty face. You can tell the guy cooking has tattoos under his chef whites. The result is an experience that, with the restaurant's wonderful service, is quite appealing all around. When you're ready to break out of the Barnyard, trust me, head to Le Caprice.

Le Caprice is located at 795 5th Avenue, (212) 940-8195, www.capriceny.com.

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Posted: May 11, 2011

Other restaurants in Upper East Side :
+ Sfoglia   + Zoe Townhouse   + Accademia di Vino   + T-Bar Steak and Lounge   + Parlor Steakhouse   + Le Caprice   

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