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“Blue Hill Stone Barns”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Upper West Side	Break the Bank	Good

. Once safely inside the cab, we began discussing our meal (as most food obsessed people do). After a few minutes of listening, the cabbie piped up: “I haven’t heard a good review yet.” A fly on the wall speaks.

The food at Blue Hill Stone Barns is good, but it should be better (and hopefully it will). Some dishes rise to the level the ingredients; others lack a pop that could be achieved with salt, heat, acid, and contrast. Dan is an honest, earnest and dedicated chef who I admire for many reasons. His approach to food and cuisine is rooted in preservation and sustainability. He sees the big picture, connecting food back to the earth and supporting local regional produce. This should not be trivialized. He is preserving our food supply and educating a new generation of chefs to do the same. But the disconnect for me is that you don’t taste the passion he has in his principles on the plate. And for $400 (and a 45-minute commute each way), I want to be writhing with pleasure in my seat. I was touched in the right place a few times, but nothing that was going to make me scream. And this girl likes to scream.

Blue Hill Stone Barns and the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture is at 630 Bedford Road, Pocantico Hills, NY, 914-366-9600. Hours: Sunday, Wednesday and Thursday 5-10pm, Fri and Sat 5-11pm; Sunday brunch starts Father’s Day, 11 am-2pm. Take the Hudson Valley line to Tarrytown (30-40 minute train ride, www.mta.nyc.ny.us for schedules and fares), grab a cab (no need to call they are usually there, but if you need a number, Annie’s Taxi is at 914-333-0434), that will set you back between $7 and $10 for the 10 minute ride to Blue Hill Stone Barns. For information on educational programs and events at the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture please visit www.bluehillstonebarns.com or www.stonebarnscenter.org, or email info@stonebarnscenter.org.

Andrea Strong

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Posted: May 16, 2004

Other restaurants in Upper West Side :
+ 'Cesca   + Asiate   + Blue Hill Stone Barns   + Per Se   + The Neptune Room   + Spigolo   + Telepan   + Aix Brasserie   + 'Cesca   + Bar Boulud   + Dovetail   + BarBao   + Dinosaur Bar-be-Que   + Kefi   + Bar Luna   + Ed's Chowder House   + Red Rooster, by Rachel Barbarotta   + Loi by Dara Pollak   

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