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“'Cesca”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | Italian | Upper West Side | Moderate | Great |
Whether at a table in the clubby rear dining room, or out front with the drinkers, start with the spicy Parmesan fritters ($6)—hot, puffy fried balls that are surprisingly light with a nutty tang and a luscious heat in the finish. Antipasti choices are egg-heavy, which for me is heaven. The speck with arugula, Parmigiano and poached egg is ‘Cesca’s version of the smoked sturgeon salad with poached egg at Ouest. The speck is robust and bold, the egg rich, runny and creamy, and the parmesan—in the form of a crisp fried cup for the egg—a flavor bridge between the two. It’s one of the best dishes on the menu, though striking in its simplicity. Of the non-egg choices, the roasted oysters with tomato zabaglione and crisp bits of proscuitto ($11) were deliriously good—warm, juicy oysters, coated in the sweet, tangy zabaglione cream, balanced out with a salty bite of the proscuitto. It hits every taste bud on target. Vegetable antipasti like a toothsome, nutty faro salad with fresh goat cheese and endive ($8), and the polenta with roasted mushrooms and fresh sheep’s cheese ($11) demonstrate that carnivores aren’t the only guests who can have fun with food here.
Pastas are made in house and astound. The oven-baked pasta with meat ragu ($18) is so good, but so rich that you may not be able to rise after dinner without a cable and a tow truck for assistance. Share this one. Main courses are also of the tow truck variety, but again are so good you just won’t care. The Fred Flintstone-sized braised pork shank i ... [more, click below]
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