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“Trestle on Tenth”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Chelsea	Moderate	Good

MY DINNER AT TRESTLE ON TENTH

Trestle on Tenth is one of those restaurants that feels welcoming even from the sidewalk. Its windowed façade allows its soft white barlight to flutter out onto the dark cement and draw your eye inside, to a warm urban tavern flanked by raw brick walls. You think, “Hmmm, this looks nice.” And so, you decide to go inside. There you find a sweet neighborhood pub that’s been given modern edge with smooth blond wood ceilings and tall cabinetry. You find friends dining at the bar, tables filled with intent couples, large flocks of folks into their second bottles of wine, and an intimate garden where the navy night sky acts as your umbrella. You think, “I like it here,” and you have a seat. You have dinner and you think, “I love it here.” And the next week, you return for more. That has been the trajectory of events for me at Trestle on Tenth. It is the sort of place that makes you want to return. There’s an honest simplicity to the Trestle on Tenth that I find very appealing. The restaurant has that peaceful easy feeling (excuse the Eagles quote), and the menu plays along those lines as well, offering simple rustic food, a sort of gastro-pub by way of Switzerland from chef-owner Ralf Kuettel (formerly of Zoë, Union Square, Cena).

I have eaten at Trestle on Tenth several times now, and what I like about Ralf is that his menu strays from the fray. There’s nothing ordinary about this menu. Ralf is doing his food his way—reaching contemporary American cuisine through Switzerland. Some may find it a bit too heavy given that it is summertime. But while the menu may read winter—oxtail and pig’s foot terrine ($12.50), a stuffed veal breast with rye berries ($22)—Ralf’s touch is refined and light. While the dishes tend to be bolder than meek, the execution is delicate—simple plating, ingredients left to there own beautiful devices with flavors that are coaxed out to full throttle.

On each visit to Trestle, we have started with the platter of cured meats and cheeses ($12), a great selection that changes often. The night we were there it included Fromage D'Alpage L'Etivaz—a three-year old "Lait Cru" cheese is made in a small creamery in south Central Switzerland that has the flavor of Gouda, an extra-aged Gruyere, and Tête de Moine (my favorite of the lot)—a semi-soft ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 13, 2006

Other restaurants in Chelsea :
+ Matsuri   + La Bottega   + Tia Pol   + Bombay Talkie   + Cookshop   + D'Or Ahn: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Buddakan   + Crema   + InTent: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Trestle on Tenth   + Klee   + El Quinto Pino   + Socarrat   + Txikito   + Co. (Company)   

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