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“Trestle on Tenth”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Chelsea	Moderate	Good

er suffering through Grandma Esther’s stuffed cabbage for many childhood meals, and watching it being pulled from the freezer molded in a thick artic char of its own, I now have very positive feelings about it.) The roast chicken and its rolled up pal are set in a sheer chicken broth perfumed with fresh dill and bobbing with barely cooked summer vegetables—tomatoes, baby zucchini, and cippolini onions. The broth is an absolutely gorgeous expression of chicken; so delicate and refined it should be eaten with a Tiffany spoon.

The roasted lamb saddle ($25) is also terrific. It is served wrapped in a glossy layer of fat for seasoning, is also wonderful, supple and lamby and served in thick slices with a heap of spicy mustard greens that offer the right amount of minty bite against the lamb’s rich and impossibly tender flesh.

Now, Trestle on Tenth does have some misses. The stuffed veal breast, a gigantic portion with rye berry salad, reminded me a bit of corned beef in texture and was a bit too heavy for summertime. One night, the brined and roasted pork loin ($23), which was tender and served with great caramelized carrots, was too salty. The salmon, crusted in horseradish and sprayed with sprouted lentils ($20), was perfectly cooked so the flesh stayed moist and slippery, but it could have used a more aggressive dose of horseradish.

Sides, however, were consistently flawless. Roasted beets ($6) have never tasted more earthy or sweet; pressed fingerling potatoes ($5.50) are served skin on, their flesh buttery, and drizzled with fruity olive oil, and dusted with sea salt and herbs. The star of the side board however is the gratinéed pizokle ($6), something that might have to be rationed out to me the next time I am there. Pizokle is the Swiss version of spaetzle, but for pizoke, the little dumplings are shaped like long fingers instead of arrows. The dumplings are tossed with a pile of caramelized onions and then gratineed with gruyere cheese. You know how the gnudi at the Spotted Pig have garnered cult status? Well, the pizokle at Trestle are on the same star track. I have continuously ordered one, and then ordered another because I must have more. I am a glutton. I freely admit it.

Desserts ($9) were also very impressive (even after the pizokle). The summer fruit salad is the simplest thing, but it’s also spectacular. It looks like something from a still life—a Japanese bowl ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 13, 2006

Other restaurants in Chelsea :
+ Matsuri   + La Bottega   + Tia Pol   + Bombay Talkie   + Cookshop   + D'Or Ahn: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Buddakan   + Crema   + InTent: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Trestle on Tenth   + Klee   + El Quinto Pino   + Socarrat   + Txikito   + Co. (Company)   

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