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“71 Clinton Fresh Food-- Closed”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | Lower East Side | Moderate | Off the Charts |
Remember this name: Jason Neroni. You will be reading lots about him in the near future. At 27, Neroni, who has the scruffy good looks of a surfer after a killer wave, has worked at some of the best kitchens in the country, including Chez Panisse, Postrio, Ducasse, Blue Hill, and most recently, at the Tasting Room as chef de cuisine. Neroni is a brilliant and rare talent with a beautiful mind for innovation and spark on the plate. He directs his culinary passion with a forceful yet thoughtful amount of creative muscle and in so doing, he has secured a place among the rising stars of a new generation of chefs under 30: Allison Vines Rushing (Jack’s Luxury Oyster Bar), Galen Zamarra (Mas, opening April 5th), and Zak Pellacio (5 Ninth, opening April 12th, and who, in candor, just turned 30).
I am happy to report that with Neroni in the kitchen, dinner at 71 Clinton is still a joyful and miraculous experience. We started with chicken liver angioletti ($11), fat rectangular envelopes, filled with dense, creamy and meaty liver, plated in an almost syrupy sauce of reduced 25 year old balsamic. Rich, yes (as rich as Dick Cheney and pals at Halliburton), but Neroni knows about balance and restraint (Cheney does not). He cuts the sweetness with tart, fleshy segments of blood orange, and adds a sharp creaminess of tallegio cheese to bring it all together. The overall effect was not unlike a very enjoyab ... [more, click below]
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