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“Thor”
Occasion: | Cuisine: | Area: | Cost: | Rating: |
Night Out | New American | Lower East Side | Moderate | Good |
The restaurant itself is clean and lean—walls are dressed in a white, gray and black floral-jigsaw pattern, and the ceiling, a sheet of glass, allows you to peer up at the fire escapes of the surrounding tenement buildings. It’s quite beautiful, in a way, but I felt as though I might be getting ready to watch a dress rehearsal of West Side Story—like Tony would swing out onto a fire escape in tight black pants, crooning for Maria. No such luck.
The food at this superhero dinning room known as Thor comes to us from chef Kurt Gutenbrunner, the highly acclaimed Austrian chef at Wallsé. At Thor, his subject is not Austria but contemporary America, though his menu does nod to his roots with sides like quark spaetzle (bland), and potatoes rosti (an unfortunate unseasoned hash brown). But we’ll get to all that. Let me begin by saying that the menu at Thor, which is nicely priced on the modest side, is just too large. There are Cold Plates to start (nine of them), Warm Plates in the Middle (eight of these), then entrees called Hot Plates divided into the fish (five) and meat (six) categories. The format is meant to make it easy to eat here often and for any sort of appetite, which is great, e ... [more, click below]
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