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“Boqueria”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Spanish	Flatiron	Moderate	Great

e also terrific—fat and firm and jumpin’ with cod. Unfortunately, while the pintxos morunos ($6)—grilled skewered chunks of lamb rubbed with cumin and lemon—were wonderfully seasoned, the meat itself was dry and slightly tough.

The same cannot be said about a special of cuttlefish ($11). Fresh sepia is cut on a bias and cured in lemon juice then cooked on the plancha until it is tender, and served with firm fresh blanched peas sauced in fume sharpened with garlic, shallots, balsamic, apple, and mint, and garnished with pea tendrils and drizzled with Arbequina olive oil and lemon juice. Can you just taste the bright gorgeous flavors here? I hope so. If not, get thee to Boqueria now to get some!

And while you’re at it, have some of Mullen’s special sardines—oversized butterflied beauties that are de-boned and rolled up and stuffed with black olives, pine nuts, preserved lemons and shallots, breaded and fried and served on top of a warm salad of heirloom tomatoes and buttery fingerling potatoes. Here too, I loved the unapologetic flavors, and the crunchy texture of the breading against the soft flesh of the little fishies. And you know what? The razor clams were even better. I’m even going to say spectacular. Yes. Spectacular. The clams are diced and cooked on the plancha then tossed with fresh corn and double smoked bacon and served in the long thin shell, which becomes like a little Pez dispenser for the goodies inside. The contrast of smoky bacon, sweet corn and clams was brilliant. Forget peanut butter and jelly. Corn and bacon? My new favorite combo.

But one of the most simple dishes on the menu was also the most amazing. The Gambas al Ajillo ($11), often a dish that can be overcooked and result in shrimp that are closer related to erasers than seafood, was miraculous. The fat ivory shrimp are incredibly juicy, and filled with sweetness, sizzling in a spicy pond of guindilla pepper-infused olive oil and shaved slices of garlic. Court actually did a dance in his seat. I wish I had a video camera. He does a mean seat dance.

As we passed plates, bargaining for last bites, our conversations began to overlap between the upcoming trip to Rome that Jamie, Adrienne and I are taking to visit Susie, the relaunch of the Strong Buzz, whether boxer briefs are more comfortable than boxers (Harvey and Craig were in a heated standoff on this issue), and the firs ... [more, click below]

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Posted: September 10, 2006

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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