“Bocca Lupo”
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Night Out |
Italian |
Brooklyn |
Cheap Eats |
Good |
ed with impressively substantial fillings, nothing skimpy. What’s more, the kitchen slices them in four so that sharing is much more available than trying to wrestle a knife through the crusty bread yourself and squishing out the center’s fillings.
Our favorite was one stuffed with sweet sausage, broccoli rabe, mushrooms and a layer of gooey taleggio ($11), followed by the super smoky P.L.T. ($9) —crisped pancetta, lettuce and tomato, and the coppa, sopprassata, pickled red onion and fontina ($10), with such an ample dose of melting cheese that stretches from the sandwich to your mouth with every bite. There may not be any high-tech innovation happening with these sandwiches, but they are crafted from top-notch ingredients and handled with such care and are so good, that you will absolutely crave them the next day, and then some. (In fact, I am craving that sweet sausage one right now, a few days later.)
Tufo knows his pasta (he cooked with Cesare Casella), and he makes a different one daily. The pasta special that night was a bucatini puttanesca, a hollow spaghetti tossed with a smooth glossy tomato sauce heavy with fat briny green olives and tight salty capers. The flavors were bright and zesty, and the dish was priced right at $8. We discussed the origin of Puttanesca—form the word puttana, or whore in Italian. Lauren, who loves to cook and manages a local restaurant, offered that the dish was quick and easy, so the name made sense. The Food Lover’s Companion offers a slightly different explanation, writing that the “intense fragrance of the sauce was like a siren’s call to the men who visited such ‘ladies of pleasure’.” Whatever the etymology, we licked that plate clean.
For dessert, we shared a guilty pleasure—a panini filled up with warm sliced bananas and nutella, served with a generous dollop of freshly whipped sweet cream. And then we headed home, walking back down Warren Street towards the F Train on Smith Street and said goodbye, going our separate ways out into the world to eat and drink and perchance to share that experience with an audience of readers. I hope they make it. I feel so maternal with my kids, like they are my little ducks waddling off on their own for the first time. I hope that I’ve managed to teach them some decent lessons and skills, and that one day, I will open Time Out, the Times or Gourmet, see their names in pri ... [
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Posted: December 18, 2006
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