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“The General Greene”


  Occasion: Cuisine: Area: Cost: Rating:
  Night Out New American Brooklyn Cheap Eats Good

the burger, it falls apart, and, quite frankly it ruins quite a beautiful burger.

By way of criticism, that’s really all I got for you. The rest is darn right great. Red mullet ($12), a fish that rarely gets much play outside of Greek restaurants, are served here topped with crispy fingers of saffron rice (think potato chips made from fried rice) and a spicy mayo for a vaguely Spanish take on these small but flavorful and meaty fishies. The quinoa salad with mint, walnuts and preserved lime, was so good—nutty, lemony, and addictive—that it might turn this vegan-favored super food into the next bacon. Twice baked potatoes loaded up with bacon and sour cream ($6) fall into the category of secret foods that I eat at sports bars with Craig. (Nachos are also on that list. Gasp!!!) But now I no longer have to be ashamed. I can eat my potato and be proud. It’s probably a local spud and even if it isn’t, it’s served in a hip Fort Greene restaurant where at least half the crowd is in heavy black plastic-framed eyeglasses, so there’s that.

Desserts include chocolate chip cookies served warm and flecked with sea salt that wakes up the flavors nicely and makes you pay attention. But if the peach crisp is on the menu, it’s a must, ditto any of Nick’s homemade ice creams, especially the salted caramel. (A street cart selling cones and cups is coming soon.)

But, wait. Did I mention the bar menu? I don’t think so. Oh, it’s a good one. It’s comprised of a few dishes served in little mason jars with slices of warm bread marked in charred stripes from the grill. There’s a jar of roasted eggplant ($5), one filled with chicken liver ($7), and another with preserved lamb and black beans (which was 86’d both times I was there owing perhaps to its popularity). There’s also an excellent selection of shaved and sliced radishes with salt and anchovies ($5) and some rather slippery deviled eggs ($3) filled with spicy creamy yolks. While the ham and Gruyere bread pudding is not on the bar menu, have it anyway. Just remember to wave goodbye to your toes.

The General Greene is located at 229 DeKalb Avenue, corner of Clermont, 718-222-1510.

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