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“Allegretti”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	French	Flatiron	Break the Bank	Great

eat your heart out.

An appetizer of octopus cooked on the plancha was also excellent ($17)—tender but pleasantly chewy, served over a clever salad of green apple, celery, red onion, potatoes and arugula, dressed in a yin-yang vinaigrette made from sherry and honey. But a simple green salad of baby lettuces with radish, cherry tomato and ricotta salata ($12), was not working. What a surprise, but the radishes were overly pickled, giving the salad an unpleasant excessive vinegary acidity.

While we recapped the horror show that was the Republican convention (Adrienne was practically apoplectic), we moved on to our entrees. The Atlantic Halibut, which I spoke of earlier, was among the most expensive dishes on the menu ($38), but it was also one of the most delicious pieces of fish I’ve ever had. The milk-fed veal ($36) was also impressive—tender to the point of absurdity (did I even need a knife?) with an medley of oven-confited tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant so concentrated with sweetness that this vegetable tart would have been suitable for dessert.

Worth mentioning is also the bread, made by Alain’s friend chef Iacapo Falai (Falai, Caffé Falai, and Panneteria)—snug little warm rolls filled with black olive, pesto, or just plain. They disappear quickly but empty bread plates are refreshed with regularity.

Desserts ($10) are also very good, in particular any of the house made gelatos and sorbets, and the grappa flourless chocolate fondant that somehow tastes light even though it’s pure chocolate.

And now we come to the conundrum. While I’d love to return to Allegretti, I don’t know that I can risk not being able to pay my rent for a meal there. And that’s a shame because I really liked this restaurant (especially those sausages and that risotto). The food is very thoughtful, many courses stood out as truly exceptional. I am torn because I feel like restaurants in this town are in a tough position. Chefs with whom I have spoken over the past few months in particular have been burdened by rising food costs (as much as 30% over last year) and are put between a rock and a hard place. Do they compromise ingredient quality and portion size and lower prices, or keep prices high and risk losing business? Clearly Allegretti has chosen the latter, and I can’t say I blame him, but I do wonder how it will play out. I guess we’ll wai ... [more, click below]

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Posted: September 21, 2008

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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