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“Vutera”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	Mediterranean	Brooklyn	Moderate	Good

ons like a blazing hearth in an ice storm. The space seems to have some sort of magical fairy dust in the air, owed to the thin ivory pillar candles that flicker on the weathered bar top, the century-old beams that brace the ceiling, the rough grey stone walls that envelop the room, and the vases of cherry red tulips that adorn the hand-made mahogany tables, like pouty kisses from spring.

Adding to the charm and the hominess of the room are the little details like the cloth dishtowel napkins striped in red, the mix n match antique flatware and flower-painted bone china. While the room is windowless, the effect is not claustrophobic. Rather, there’s a sense of intimacy that makes you feel tucked in and safe, like you’re far removed from the world outside. I kept looking around the room, at the soft light dancing on the walls, at the tables of friends and lovers sharing dinner, and felt very content. Would it be too quaint to say that this is just a happy little restaurant? Probably, but it’s true.

In the kitchen, Carlo and Gina have installed Molly del Monte, the former sous chef of Little Giant, who’s created a brief, well-priced seasonal New Mediterranean menu to be shared at the communal tables that run through the center of the room or in the cellar’s more intimate corners for two or four. To run the restaurant and curate the wine list, they’ve tapped Hugh Crickmore, a former owner of Mas.

Molly’s cooking is rustic and simple, with a select few ingredients and just a couple of pristine flavors featured on each plate. For instance, her version of Wedding Soup ($7) is a pared-down version of the old-school recipe. It’s more like a festive chicken soup adorned with a generous serving of tender white beans, a few plump and juicy meatballs, and ribbons of rainbow chard, than the traditional broth crowded with pasta, Parmesan, and bread crumbs.

For such a traditionally heavy soup, it’s incredibly light.
An ode to local artisans takes the form of a scoop of Salvatore Brooklyn ricotta ($8) served almost like a savory ice cream sundae, but in this case drizzled with olive oil (not chocolate sauce) and served with toast points instead of wafers. It’s a good starter to order right away, so you have a nice snack while you peruse the dinner menu.

When your eyes stop on the cauliflower gratin ($6), let them rest there and recall my words: this is perh ... [more, click below]

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Posted: March 29, 2009

Other restaurants in Brooklyn :
+ Chickenbone Cafe-- Closed   + Pier 116-- Closed   + Chestnut   + Lunch at Peter Luger's   + 360   + Palo Santo   + The Good Fork   + Porchetta-- Closed Now   + Bocca Lupo   + Flatbush Farm   + DuMont Burger   + Dressler   + Farm on Adderley   + The Grocery   + Saul   + Black Mountain Wine House   + The General Greene   + Char No. 4   + James   + Chestnut   + No. 7   + Vinegar Hill House   + Motorino   + Buttermilk Channel   + Buttermilk Channel   + Vutera   + Watty & Meg    + Prime Meats   + Aqualis Grill   + Jack the Horse Tavern   + Roman's   + Fatty 'Cue   + Thistle Hill Tavern   + Broken English   + Trix, by Dara Pollak   + An Ode to New Orleans in Williamsburg: Maison Premiere, By Dara Pollak   + Brooklyn Wok Shop by Dara Pollak   + Arthur on Smith   + La Vara   + Gran Electrica   + Pok Pok Ny   + Ganso    + Reynard   

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