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“Jack the Horse Tavern”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Brooklyn	Moderate	Great

the freshest salads dressed with perfectly balanced vinaigrettes. One night Craig and I started with a salad (to share)—those terrific mixed greens (and ruffled reds) tossed with hunks of Maytag blue and topped with a fan of sliced poached pears ($8). Rather than sending one salad for us to share, the kitchen split it in two, giving each of us quite a large portion. Little touches like that make you know someone in there really cares. The thoughtfulness also comes through in the cocktail list, too which is two lovely pages long and includes classics and modern takes. The Brooklyn Heights is my favorite, a mix of Rye whiskey, bitters, and Campari with a twist.

We were not the only ones who were impressed with the food at Jack the Horse. One night, the guy at the table next to me turned to me and said, “This steak is amazing, I’ve gotta find out what cut this is and get it from my butcher.” He then returned to his meal, smiling and fascinated. He was right. The hanger steak is excellent, cut on the bias in nice thick, juicy pieces, served with a comforting cheese-laden gratin of potatoes, grilled red onions, and horseradish sauce ($24). The short ribs are great, too, the sort of dish made for winter, with Brussels sprouts, radishes, and a creamy potato puree ($23). A juicy pork rib chop looks to the South and gets a creamy cornbread sauce, with roasted parsnips and caramelized apples ($22). Mussels fans should make a point of trying the plump PEI pups served here, a generous portion in a giant bowl with toasted country bread and herb fries ($17).

Desserts are fine, but not noteworthy. Instead, have another cocktail or order of the mac ‘n cheese, made from cavatappi pasta, with smoked gouda and fontina ($9, an appetizer), as dessert instead.

As I sit in my apartment writing this review, the weather outside is quite frightful: cold, raining, dark and depressing. But I am dreaming of another dinner at Jack the Horse. It takes the chill off in an instant. It’s the kind of place you want in your neighborhood, and I am thrilled it’s in mine. Let the buzz begin.

Jack the Horse Tavern is located at 66 Hicks Street, (718) 852-5084.

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Posted: December 11, 2009

Other restaurants in Brooklyn :
+ Chickenbone Cafe-- Closed   + Pier 116-- Closed   + Chestnut   + Lunch at Peter Luger's   + 360   + Palo Santo   + The Good Fork   + Porchetta-- Closed Now   + Bocca Lupo   + Flatbush Farm   + DuMont Burger   + Dressler   + Farm on Adderley   + The Grocery   + Saul   + Black Mountain Wine House   + The General Greene   + Char No. 4   + James   + Chestnut   + No. 7   + Vinegar Hill House   + Motorino   + Buttermilk Channel   + Buttermilk Channel   + Vutera   + Watty & Meg    + Prime Meats   + Aqualis Grill   + Jack the Horse Tavern   + Roman's   + Fatty 'Cue   + Thistle Hill Tavern   + Broken English   + Trix, by Dara Pollak   + An Ode to New Orleans in Williamsburg: Maison Premiere, By Dara Pollak   + Brooklyn Wok Shop by Dara Pollak   + Arthur on Smith   + La Vara   + Gran Electrica   + Pok Pok Ny   + Ganso    + Reynard   

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