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“Devin Tavern”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Tribeca	Moderate	Good

MY DINNER AT DEVIN TAVERN
A Tavern, by its dictionary definition, is a “bar serving food.” Certainly, a tavern can be that simple—a convivial place to drink cold pints and chow down on greasy burgers. I am thinking of Pete’s, and the one on Jane. Then again, in New York City, a tavern can be quite a bit more grand, as in the one called Gramercy. Somewhere in between these two extremes fits Devin Tavern, the sophomore project from Michael Waterhouse and John Mautone, the down-to-earth guys behind the impossibly popular steakhouse and after-work cocktail joint, Dylan Prime.

The association to its sibling Dylan conjures up dark wood, smoky leather, and hands wrapped around fat squat glasses filled with brown spirits; Dylan is a sexy testosterone-heavy dining room made for slabs of salty, lip-licking, charred beef. Devin, though, takes a different tact. It has a lighter, slightly feminine edge. Its color scheme is gentler—more sand, cream, butter, and taupe. Its walls at the entry way are white, and the foyer feels vaguely inspired by an Inn somewhere in New England. The bar room is wide and comfortable, with banquettes built for big groups. A long welcoming bar backed by flatscreens is fixed with stools baring cushioned leather seats and high backs so you can maintain good posture while you chat and drink. And this is a bar to drink at. They serve well-balanced cocktails from fresh ingredients.

On my first night there, Craig and I decided to hang out at the bar for a little while before dinner. I had a frisky tequila drink called the Raleigh Collins made from Milagro silver tequila with fresh lemon juice, housemade Limoncello and soda ($12). It was bright and tart and just sweet enough and it hit the spot. Craig went for the Blue Tomato, a vodka martini garnished with a blue cheese stuffed cherry tomato ($12). Craig loved the garnishes. The bartender noticed and was nice enough to give us a few extra to snack on while we waited for our table.

The dining room is as comfortable as the bar room. There are hardwood floors, blazing fireplaces, well-spaced solid wood tables matched with big wide high back arm chairs, and oversized booths with rolled-arm banquettes. From the design of the place alone, which is the work of Chris Smith, management seems intent on at least one thing—making sure you ... [more, click below]

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Posted: October 16, 2006

Other restaurants in Tribeca :
+ Lunchbox Food Company--Closed   + 66: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Ola-- Closed   + Bouley   + Dominic   + Landmarc   + Pace-- Closed   + EN Japanese Brasserie   + Centrico   + Cercle Rouge   + The Harrison   + Turks & Frogs Tribeca   + Devin Tavern   + Dani-- Closed Now   + Bacaro/Smith & Mills   + The Harrison   + Matsugen, By Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Forge   + Macao Trading Company   + Harbour   + Review text tbd...   + Mehtaphor   + Brushstroke   + Jung Sik   

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