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“Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Good

rdquo; list and a solid two stars from the Times. Yet, when I first visited to write-up the restaurant for Citysearch, I felt a disconnect between its upscale menu (and prices) with the noise level, not to mention that the all-white décor was as welcoming as an ice cube. The formula didn’t exactly encourage regulars. And then the economy crashed… discouraging destination dining all over town. Owner Kiwon Standen smartly recognized that a retooling was in order.    

Adding “Bistro” to the name was the first signal that the restaurant was scaling down. A remodel of the formerly igloo-like interior came next. A cozy golden glow now softens the textured white walls while wood tones with ecru accents, like burlap drapes and grain sacks fashioned into pillows (much cuter than they sound on paper), add a relaxed warmth. 
   

A new bar menu, with all items $10 or under, certainly accommodates the times better. It’s a clever persuader for locals to stop in for a cocktail, perhaps the W. 10th St Iced Tea (sweet tea vodka, lemon and lime, $12), and munch on bites like white bean and olive tapenade crostini ($7), ham and fontina croquettes ($7) and fries ($6) with a choice of Dutch fry dips, such as Indian curry and chipotle. The wine list, re-organized into bottles “Under $50,” “Between $50-$100,” and “Reserve” is now much more user-friendly.
   

Chef Sebastiaan Zijp’s newly toned-down menu marries comfort with his classical French training, so that food and atmosphere are perfectly on par, with dishes richly simple, like the slow-roasted chicken breast with parsnip, comte gnocchi, leg meat confit and black truffle ($26), to the lushly light, such as salmon with braised escarole, roasted radish in chestnut white wine sauce ($26).
   

As I slipped into a cozy white leather banquette in the back room, New Order’s “Blue Monday” was playing on the sound system. That, plus a perky rose cava ($12) was enough for me to warrant repeat visits. The brightly-marinated pink sunfish ceviche ($16) with watermelon radish pickle and avocado mousse sparkled just as much as the cava, with just the right amount of salt and acid bolstering, not bullying, the inherent sweetness of the fish. And a salad of Boston lettuce, hearts of palm and poached egg ($12), tossed in a mustardy dres ... [more, click below]

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Posted: June 27, 2009

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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