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“Monument Lane”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	West Village	Moderate	Good

in a pretty fluted pastry shell, the sort that might otherwise contain blueberries and whipped cream, is overloaded with dark mushrooms that taste just foraged, melting with leeks and butter, with a big, beautiful red oak leaf lettuce salad tossed in a blue cheese dressing on the side. The salad is a nice touch, adding a little sharpness to the warm earthy flavors of the mushroom and butter, err, leek tart.

While the lobster roll is a showstopper, chef Murphy also excels at the art of the burger. His patty is thick and juicy, and topped with a hot and gooey mess of shredded cheddar and American cheeses, with crispy onions and a nice aioli ($16). It’s the perfect two-handed supper. While many of the plates on Murphy’s menu might happily be consumed at the comfortable bar with a cold pint or one of their well-made house cocktails (and the company of one of their very affable barmen), the chef also excels at more delicate expressions. Take his sea bass, for example. A crispy skinned filet is served in a stunning lobster stock so rich it should come with its own trophy wife, brimming with littleneck clams and spring onions. It’s a beautiful dish and a delight to eat. Ditto the appetizer of pork belly, braised until melting under a cap of smoky skin, brightened with sweet caramelized chunks of stone fruit ($14). Yum.

Monument Lane reminds me of several restaurants in my book that I list among my all time favorite regular haunts, places like Five Points, Buttermilk Channel, and Char No. 4. The restaurant has a good spirit. It serves the sort of food you want to eat any night of the week, and it’s staffed with people who make you feel welcome and happy. Really. They make you want to be nicer; to say thank you and really mean it. It more than makes up for the noise level. And of course, there’s that lobster roll. Oh, my.

Monument Lane is located at 103 Greenwich Ave (at West 12th Street), 212.255.0155, www.monumentlane.com.

 

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Posted: July 5, 2011

Other restaurants in West Village :
+ Jefferson-- Closed   + La Palapa Rockola   + Sumile   + Babbo   + Tasca   + AOC Bedford   + Home   + The Spotted Pig   + Barbuto   + Numero 26   + Mas   + August   + Alta   + Cru   + Blue Mill Tavern-- Closed   + Employees Only   + Lassi   + Metropol--Closed   + Turks and Frogs   + Bellavitae   + Yumcha-- CLOSED   + Gusto: SEE EARLIER REVIEW; THIS CHEF HAS LEFT GUSTO   + Perry Street   + Home   + Ditch Plains   + The Little Owl   + Cafe Condesa   + Cafe Cluny   + Gusto   + The Waverly Inn   + Morandi   + P*ONG   + Perilla   + Soto   + Market Table   + Centro Vinoteca   + Barfry   + Dell'Anima   + Bar Blanc   + Smith's   + Commerce   + Elettaria   + Bar Q   + Cabrito   + 10 Downing   + Minetta Tavern   + Braeburn   + Scuderia, by guest reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Bar Blanc Bistro by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Joseph Leonard   + Bar Henry, by Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Kin Shop   + Monument Lane   + Wong   + Bin on Bleecker, by Dara Pollak   + Ristorante Rafele   + Cole's Greenwich Village by Guest Reviewer Claire Jaffe   

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