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“The NoMad”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Flatiron	Break the Bank	Good

greatest meals of my life under Chef Humm), but it’s good fun. After we finished our cocktails and located a reasonably priced bottle of wine (the latter challenge was quite arduous), our meal began with a loaf of warm homemade zucchini and cheese flatbread. Heaven is the place where bread and cheese meet, don’t you think? ‘Tis. Don’t expect to be able to leave a crumb behind. This is bread you’ll battle blood for. Order another loaf and bring some Ziplocs. It, over everything else at your table, including friends, lovers, and children, needs to come home with you.

The radishes ($8) are just adorable. Now I know you’ve never seen the words “adorable” and “radish” in such proximity, but it’s just the truth. The peppery little knobs, colored in bubble gum pink and cherry red, are dunked in melted butter and then arranged, standing up, on a butcher block slab like strawberries dipped in white chocolate. My daughter Emily would have loved these. They looked like a small family of critters that could support a Nick Jr. series for a good long time. I can just see it now: The Radishes! Premiering this Fall! They sure are tasty, too. Since they’ve already been buttered, glossed in just the right amount of fat, simply dip them in the little hill of sea salt, and nosh away.

Lumps of sweet King Crab take on a mound of taglietelle, brightened with sunny Meyer lemon and a smack of black pepper ($19/$28). We could’ve eaten the larger size, so I suggest you go for the bigger bowl when the decision comes. Snappy snow peas ($15) are chiffonaded (pity the garde manger and his poor carpel tunnel syndrome) into skinny rafts for a salad that’s tossed up with smoky pancetta, nutty shavings of Pecorino, and a fistful of fresh mint, drizzled with the lightest hand of olive oil and salt. The salad is a beauty, a reason to believe in simplicity forever, a white dress in summertime. Humm’s smoked trout ($18) is dressed with a buttermilk-horseradish cream, and comes with some thin rye crackers. Sadly, it’s a bit of a sloppy dish, to be honest, with the sauce painting the plate in wild brushstrokes. But the trout is wonderfully smoky and rich, and what’s not to love about those flavors?

So, things were looking good at the half-time break. Sure, I didn’t love the design of the restaurant, but that’s okay. Many people don’t like the way I decor ... [more, click below]

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Posted: July 6, 2012

Other restaurants in Flatiron :
+ Suenos   + Amuse-- Closed   + Dos Caminos   + Lucy-- Closed   + Gramercy Taver   + Veritas   + Fleur De Sel   + Bolo -- CLosed   + City Bakery   + Shake Shack   + Kalustyan's Cafe   + Devi   + BLT Fish   + Sugarcane   + BLT Prime   + Barca 18-- CLOSED   + Beppe   + Barbounia   + Boqueria   + Eleven Madison   + Lonesome Dove-- CLOSED   + Hill Country   + Olana   + Wildwood   + Primehouse   + Allegretti   + Bar Breton   + Aldea   + SD26 by Bao Ong   + ABC Kitchen   + Ciano   + The NoMad   

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