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“The Harrison”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Tribeca	Moderate	Good

es that should please everyone in your group given choices like Heirloom roast chicken with roasted lemon, garlic, potato puree ($25), NY strip steak with bone marrow butter crust and Tuscan kale ($36), and American red snapper ($26) with graffiti eggplant, celery, tomato, and fregola.

We started with the tilefish, a plump and moist white fish that reminded me of a cross between Halibut and Monkfish, that’s served with summer’s first corn in a soft herb and green onion sauce. While the fish was lovely, it was sleepy compared to the lamb, which, like the beet salad, was possibly the best lamb I’ve ever had. Amanda serves it “English Cut,” which turns the lamb ($31) into a T-bone steak and then rubs it with olive oil, garlic and rosemary and grills it so it’s tastes like a juicy meaty steak but one made of lamb. The meat was exquisite, and if you’re a lamb person you’d be best served by heading over to The Harrison post haste. My only quibble with this dish is that it’s plated with some green and yellow baby carrots, and I feel like it was not a complete meal. She could do a lamb frites and throw in a side of her (completely lily gilding and, sorry I know this is heresy, unnecessary) duck fat fries ($8, wildly crunchy) or perhaps do a tabouleh, quinoa or cous cous side? To me, the plate felt incomplete.

This was not the case with the pork chop ($24), a gorgeous oversized chop so moist it must have been brined or soaked in milk, and served on a generous bed of creamy white coco beans seasoned with thyme and stewed with shreds of escarole and topped with a shower of crispy pancetta for a welcome layer of texture and smokiness. It’s brilliant.

Desserts by pastry chef Colleen Grapes include a chocolate pretzel tart which could use more salty pretzel ($8), an elegant panna cotta made from tart and creamy Greek yogurt drizzled with Acacia honey and topped with a scoop of celery sorbet ($8) that was very good, and a strawberry lemon tart ($9) which was my favorite, topped with a little soft blaze of heat from pink peppercorns hidden inside fluff of delicate meringue. It’s a sneaky little dessert. I loved it for that.

After dinner, for the first time in two years, Susie took a taxi back to her own apartment, not to a hotel or to my place or Jamie’s to crash on the couch. I know she was happy about this; she’s been aching to get back to New ... [more, click below]

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Posted: July 13, 2008

Other restaurants in Tribeca :
+ Lunchbox Food Company--Closed   + 66: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Ola-- Closed   + Bouley   + Dominic   + Landmarc   + Pace-- Closed   + EN Japanese Brasserie   + Centrico   + Cercle Rouge   + The Harrison   + Turks & Frogs Tribeca   + Devin Tavern   + Dani-- Closed Now   + Bacaro/Smith & Mills   + The Harrison   + Matsugen, By Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Forge   + Macao Trading Company   + Harbour   + Review text tbd...   + Mehtaphor   + Brushstroke   + Jung Sik   

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