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“Forge”

Occasion:	Cuisine:	Area:	Cost:	Rating:
Night Out	New American	Tribeca	Moderate	Good

ood.

The kitchen seemed to find its stride with entrees. The organic chicken is stuffed under the skin and roasted and served with country bread and Stan’s grilled vegetables ($26). While the skin is not as crispy as I’d hoped, it’s a comforting supper that I could see returning to have on a stormy night, with a nice bottle of light-bodied red wine.

While the chicken was humble, the fish special that night was dazzling. A 10-ounce skate wing is prepared Milanese style, breaded and pan-fried and topped with a bright and pungent sauce of eggplant, onions, capers and lemon that made this my favorite plate of the evening. The sea bass, wrapped in a tight coat of smoky bacon wasn’t too shabby either, adorned with briny, grape-sized Cerignola olives, candied lemon and a smooth layer of velvety artichoke puree ($27).

The steak ($22) was also excellent—a generous portion of hanger steak served sliced—charred and salty on the outside, rare and luscious in the center—dressed with a fierce chimichurri and served with a side of “Jim Beard’s Hash Browns,” more like a classic potatoes gratin loaded up with cream and gruyere cheese than the golden edged breakfast special, but quite wonderful nonetheless.
Desserts were perfect for Forge’s big sky setting. We demolished the peach upside-down cake—think peach tart tatin, but flipped over—with sweet corn ice cream and caramel corn ($9) and considered ordering another. Hey, I’d had two rolls slathered in melted butter at this point, what harm would two more upside-down cakes do? But then the jelly donuts arrived, fat plum-filled bon bons of dough with a lemon Verbena Crème dipping sauce. What harm would a few jelly donuts do…

As we had some tea (their tea service is lovely, served in hand made clay pots and matching mugs ideal for the campfire) and finished the donuts, we watched as the room grew more crowded, and filled with a great little buzz. A big group of friends was seated at the communal table and began toasting to a birthday girl, a group of guys descended onto the bar, grabbing stools at the long rough-hewn bar table, ordering a round and raising their glasses. While some of the menu is in need of a few tweaks Forge is a gracious, convivial, and sexy restaurant, the sort of place you want to come in and stay a while, drink a while, then hop on your horse to take yo ... [more, click below]

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Posted: August 29, 2008

Other restaurants in Tribeca :
+ Lunchbox Food Company--Closed   + 66: THIS RESTAURANT IS CLOSED   + Ola-- Closed   + Bouley   + Dominic   + Landmarc   + Pace-- Closed   + EN Japanese Brasserie   + Centrico   + Cercle Rouge   + The Harrison   + Turks & Frogs Tribeca   + Devin Tavern   + Dani-- Closed Now   + Bacaro/Smith & Mills   + The Harrison   + Matsugen, By Guest Reviewer Kathleen Squires   + Forge   + Macao Trading Company   + Harbour   + Review text tbd...   + Mehtaphor   + Brushstroke   + Jung Sik   

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